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The New York'' Indian jewelery'' auction of 2019 fetched millions of dolllars for Indian Golconda diamonds

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Golconda Diamond  newindianexpress.com
A perusal of  diamonds put on sale at  the  auction conducted by 253-year-old firm Christie's in New York in  July 2019 and the exhibition titled, Jewels of India: The Nizam's Jewellery Collection  at the National Museum in New Delhi  (February to May, 2019) will reveal lots of fabulous diamonds called  Golconda Diamonds mined in present day Andhra.  The famous light Pink Golconda Diamond, an oval brilliant-cut  of 10.46 carats was one of star attractions. This particular one was unearthed in the mine on alluvial plains of the tributaries of the Krishna river, South India.

The other diamonds at the New York auction included were
“portrait diamonds'' mined near Krishna river;“Extremely shallow, they consist of virtually nothing but two tables separated by a tiny row of girdle facets. They were sometimes used to cover miniature paintings to make the impressive and therefore came to be known as portrait diamonds.

The other highlight of the New York auction was  the ‘The Nizam of Hyderabad Necklace’, made of an antique diamond, emerald and enamel necklace that the Nizams used to wear during parades. “The necklace has eight large diamonds in set, each having an estimated weight of 10.00 to 15.00 carats.Centuries ago diamond cutting industry was  fairly in an advanced stage in India in the Golconda area and  the modified brilliant-cut of these diamonds reflects the advancement of gem-faceting in India.

The costliest diamond under the hammer was the ‘Mirror of Paradise’ ring, a rectangular-cut 52.58-carat diamond. It has a platinum ring, and “flawless clarity”. It is estimated that it would  fetch between $7 mn and $10 mn.

Arcot diamond II economictimes.indiatimes.com
The Golconda  diamond that got the best attention at Christie's, New York was  diamond 'Arcot II'once owned by Queen Charlotte, consort of King of Great Britain George III, a diamond necklace of the Nizams of Hyderabad. The 17-carat Golconda diamond "Arcot II",was owned by  Nawab of Arcot (Tamil Nadu, S. India) that later went to the British royal family. It was sold for a stunning Rs 23.5 crore ($3,375,00).
''Evening Star'',diamond thenewsminute.com
The other coveted diamonds put on auction at Christie’s earlier include the''Evening Star'', an old-mine pear-shaped cut stone famous for its transparency, one of the salient features of the Golconda diamonds. In the diamond trade, it is widely accepted that all diamonds displaying this special luminescence  are of Indian origin.

 Tit-bits:
The Golconda Diamonds of India  were once mined in a specific geographic area in the present-day Telangana and Andhra Pradesh states of South India. It was during the rule of  Qutb Shahi dynasty (16th century-17th century CE), also known as the "Golconda Sultanate", diamonds from these mines  called Kollur Mine) were taken to the city of Hyderabad to be cut, polished, evaluated and sold. Golconda town, close to Hyderabad  became an important diamond trading center then  and it flourished until the end of the 19th century. In the annals of Diamond History of the world in the by-gone era, the Golconda market was the primary source of the finest and largest diamonds in the world.
Diamond mining in India/en.wikipedia.org

 The name 'Golconda Diamond'became  legendary and mark of quality and includes an array of world' most  famous diamonds such the colorless Koh-i-Noor (Part of royal collection, UK; it is in the Crown), the blue Hope (United States), the pink Daria-i-Noor (Iran), the white Regent (France), the Dresden Green (Germany), and the colorless Orlov (Russia), Nizam (340 carats) and Jacob (India), as well as the now lost diamonds Florentine Yellow, Akbar Shah and Great Mogul (787 carats;1650).

One of the most popular diamond mines Kollur Mine was located near  Guntur in Guntur district, Andhra Pradesh state. There were also other mines around the River Krishna alluvial deposits in South India.
The most intensive mining was done in a 60 km zone along the river bed.  Along with diamonds, the region also became a trade center for metal ware, pearls, spices and textiles. According to The New Indian Express (22 October 2016), "the Hyderabad based historian, Muhammad Safiullah  has mentioned that the ''estimated output from all mines in Golconda was  around 12 million carats" absolutely mind-boggling. According to Manu S. Pillai, (The Hindu, 05 November 2016), Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, world famous  French traveler and jeweler (believed to an expert in gem-quality diamonds claimed to have seen a flat diamond called the Great Table diamond kept in a dungeon in Golconda. Jean de Thévenot and François Bernier were also French traders in 'Golconda Diamonds'.   Tavernier visited the Krishna River mines - mostly open-cast in 1665, and estimated that about 60,000 people were engaged in  diamond mining.
http://www.newindianexpress.com/cities/hyderabad/2019/jun/10/hyderabads-golconda-diamonds-mined-during-qutub-shahi-period-to-fetch-millions-in-us-auction-1988281.html

 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diamond_mining_in_India
 https://economictimes.indiatimes.com/magazines/panache/royal-auction-17-carat-golconda-diamond-arcot-iisold-for-rs-23-5-crore/articleshow/69869828.cms





Dubashis /Banians (Indian Commission Agents/ Translators) and East India Company officials

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Coat of arms (1698)en.wikipedia.org

 During the East India company rule in the Indian subcontinent, three rose a necessity for the English company officials  to use the services of an interpreter commonly referred to as  Dubash (dho meaning  two, and bash or bashi meaning  language).  An Hindustani word literally meaning a person knowing two languages. The term ''Banyan''(from caste term Baneah) implies a Hindu merchant, shopkeeper, or confidential cashierand broker. The term was used widely in Bengal to designate the native who managed the money concerns of the European, and sometimes served him as an interpreter. In plain term, he was a commission agent for the Europeans traders.

Banyan (agent) - a native of Surat.- Brtish India. credit:diwancybermuseum.com


In the later period under the colonial rule, Dubashis became a powerful force to reckon with because of their easy access to the English company and  influence  on the officials. No doubt, they emerged as influential people and played no less rule in the realm  of trade, politics and society. India being a multi-lingual country  with many regional languages and varied culture, the English company had to deal with merchants and traders who never spoke English.  The language hurdle between European traders and the ­native merchants caused the  emergence of  dubashis as ­interpreters. Besides English, they could speak both Tamil and Telugu in the Madras Presidency. In Calcutta Presidency, the Banions/ dubashis could speak Bengali and Hindustani, besides English. But gradually the dubashis, as their services became inevitable in all dealings business, govt. contract work, etc,, they  began to make lots of money exploiting both parties and their lack of a common language.  


Thus  lack of local language  skill,  traditional trading systems and the prices of  local commodities on the part of Europeans was to the advantage of some of the unscrupulous Dubashis. This handicap made them depend on the bilingual Dubashis who  never missed the opportunity to exploit both parties by giving  misleading information on the price of merchandise, etc. Being inquisitive, they very well knew the horoscope of every English sahib or ''Durai'' (local parlance in Tamil Nadu for European) and their planet positions!! They also knew their weakness as well as strength. The English sahibs were like fish out of water without them. For English traders Dubashis became endemic, nothing could be done by them without their support. 

Mention may be made of some earliest dubashis of Madras: Ananda Ranga Pillai, -the dubash of Dupleix, the Governor of French Pondi­cherry,  Pachiyappa Mudaliar ( from Kanchi­puram) - one of the most famous dubashis of the British.and Avadhanam Paupiah - talented, but  notorious in the later half of the 18th and early  19th ­Cen­tury and was daringly was corrupt and an accomplice in financial misdeeds with Europeans.

Later
Brahmans, Chettiars and  Nayaks became Dubashis 
with good proficiency in  English. They also became influential and had political clout in colonial India. Having been firmly rooted in the Indian soil, the English company began to poke their nose in the internal affairs of  of rich Maharajahs and Nawabs and slowly put their grip on them only to be tightened later.
Company flag (1801)en.wikipedia.org
In the initial sages the EIC refereed to them as servants, and later   called them  ‘agents’ and ‘brokers’. In Madras in the early period - 1679, there were only 12 dubashis  to serve the English merchants. Later the company appointed a Head Debashi to do other duties like free food distribution among the poor in case of  natural calamity - 1686 and 1687 , etc.  Dubashis humanitarian activities got them a name. The then Mogul ruler Aurangzeb in 1716 gave  trade concessions - custom-free trading in all the port towns in the  Sultanate of Golconda,


After 18th century, in the Madras Presidency debashis were mostly merchants. Men like Sunca Raman Chetty, Bell Chetty, Colloway Chetty and Callastry Chetty in thr  1700s had  influence with the European settlers in the Fort. St. George. At one stage these agents were given power to regulate the prices of local market. Armed with lots of power under the authority of the Governor, they misused their power and fixed prices without proper regulation. Further,  among them jealousy, competition and mistrust  tore them apart.  Infuriated EIC, at one stage in 1716, fired an errant  dubashi for dereliction of duty, fined  500 pagodas  and sent him to Camp David (near Cuddalore, TN). Here, they put him on the pillory with  a message around his neck explaining his crime. Anyway, Dubashis played  a major role in the  political affairs of Fort St. George, Madras.  Rather, the officials, relied on them for  better administration in-cooperation with the local population.

http://madrasmusings.com/Vol%2018%20No%2023/the-dubashes-of-olde-madras.html
 https://puronokolkata.com/tag/east-india-company/

Greedy Dubash Pau­piah and corrupt East India Company officials, Madras

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Corrupt practices. .cartoonstock.com
/halelrod.com
Below is the recorded story of the British East India Company (EIC) officials and their Debash (or Dubashi)- Indian agent  at  Fort St. George, Madras (now Chennai, TN) whose dereliction of duty, corrupt practices and greed to make fast bucks landed them in serious trouble  and pushed them from the dizzy height of power and prestige  to  the abysmal depth; simply it was sudden fall from sublime to disgrace. No matter what sort of job you do, honesty, commitments  and unquestionable integrity are essential to progress in life. Your promotion and perks will come to you slowly, but surely. ''Jack rabbit jump'' to make money will,at last, put you in the soup.


We have to go on  a short  nostalgic trip down the
memory lane  to the early colonial days of Madras (now Chennai,Tamil Nadu state) then called Chennapatna.  Indian Agents locally called Dubhasis played  a  key role between the English Sahibs (Durai in Tamil) and the native rulers and merchants  in their daily interactions with respect to business dealings, etc.  Gradually the Indian agents as consented by the officials made an inroad into the corridors of power and political affairs in  Fort St. George, Madras because of their long and close acquaintance with higher-ups like  the Governors, etc.  It is imperative that their  dedicated services as interpreters or agents or translators for the English officials and merchants  could never be ignored. Rather, the officials relied heavily on them for  better administration, implementation of civil  projects, purchase of commodities, etc. The officials needed the cooperation of the local population and could approach them only through dubashis.  No political and  commercial agreements with local rulers or others could be possible  for the English without their help and advice. Including low-ranking English officials, powerful local traders and contractors could access the Governor or any  other higher-ups in the saddle of  power only through them. They had unquestionable authority and power within the confines of Fort St. George.
cartoonstock.com
In this kind of  political scenario prevailing in the major trading post in Madras, the English kept the Debhasis in close proximity to keep them abreast of what was going on in the places around them. It was at this juncture Avadhanum Pau­piah, a Telugu Brahmin, native of  Nel­lore town (Andhra state; close to Madras) got a name for his dedicated services to the company and developed not only political clout but also close connection with the power that be. Nellore was then in the princely state of Carnatic. Though Paupiah had little formal education, he was shrewd and fairly proficient  in Persian, which was the court language of the princely state and learnt English.  During the governorship of Jon Holland (1789) 
and his brother Edward Holland, third member of the Governor in Council and President of the Board of Revenue (constituted 
in 1786) there  developed a close contact between them and  
Pau­piah. This association with mutual trust transformed the life of this poor man and put him on the pinnacle of power; obviously he began to wallow in money. 

Beginning his life at the bottom of the rung as a "writer" (clerk who writes or copies documents and papers) /clerk  in the Sea Customs office of the EIC, Madras  on a monthly salary of  just six rupees,  Pau­piah  began to go up the ladder of professional  life. His official responsibility included  collection of customs dues and  keeping the company accounts. This  job  proved to be highly lucrative - something like hen laying golden eggs for a man who was earning the lowest monthly salary.  Over a period of time with income beyond his expectations, he began to buy  several houses in Madras.  Soon he owned properties worth three or four lakhs of pagodas.  Later, he became the chief dubash to the powerful Holland brothers over whom he exerted much  influence. The Holland brothers were dishonest corrupt to the core and they became members of the Assembly through dishonest means. In 1789, John Holland became the Governor of Madras (residency).
It had been the custom for everyone to speak first to the dubash regarding  all business matters before consulting the Governor. It was through Pau­piah that the Governor  communicated with the native courts. Paupiah  became so powerful that he could access  the Governor even at the dead of night. Be they Rajahs or Nawabs, or powerful local rulers, they had to oblige Paupiah. “His house became a beehive of activities - a sort of rendezvous place for people seeking favors as well as help in business matters requiring wheeling and dealing, etc.
East India Co. Fort St. George, Madras (Chennai,Tamil Nadu).scroll.in
Above image" Fort St George, Madras early colonial time. Fort St George was, in origin, essentially a fort. The inner citadel was built in 1640, the outer wall and four bastions by 1659, primarily as protection from the “inland enemy”, variously Mughal generals, nawabs and the rulers of Golconda. Visitors approved of the fortifications’ height and thickness, however  Andrew Cogan built it big when the Company’s stock was so small”. The Prospect of Fort St George was commissioned by Thomas Pitt, governor of Madras from 1698 to 1709, but was only completed after his death in 1726'' (https://scroll.in/article/867288/a-slice-of-history-what-a-british-city-plan-tells-us-about-)......................................

The EIC introduced certain new reforms in the existing  revenue  after getting  a jagir from the Nawab of the Carnatic in 1763, the company aimed at taking more revenue for itself.  Accordingly,  Haliburton, the most powerful and influential member of the Board of Revenue, introduced  a new system - warachittam, a new mode of revenue-collection, by which the Company could get more revenue than through the then existing system. 
Above image:.common-place-archives.org
 Above image: "The Rise of India Stock & sinking fund of oppression," engraving by B. W. (January 1784). Courtesy of the British Cartoon Collection, American Antiquarian Society, Worcester, Massachusetts................................
The natives and the merchants  were not happy about this new system as they would lose a big chunk of revenue. They  appealed to the Governor and leading merchants, like Kandappa Mu­da­liar, Sami Sungaraman Chetty, Ponnappa Mudali and Appaji Rao, sought  Paupiah's help  and bribed him to get the  new revenue system of warachittam buried for ever.  But Haliburton  was resolute to get it introduced  Suspecting blockage of resolution  by Haliburton, Paupiah and the Holland brothers hatched a plot to remove Haliburton soon from the Board of Revenue. They framed up  charges against him  by  instigating the natives to oppose the Company administration.  Pau­piah had several natives sent petitions against Haliburton to the Company. As there was enough evidence on hand EIC  removed Halibur­ton from the Board of Revenue and posted  him to Chan­dra­giri as pay master, a post of no importance.
East India Co. squeezing money, India bwindia.net/
With the removal of  Haliburton, the Holland brothers, in collusion with  Paupiah, misappropriated huge amount in the later period. The cheating was so bad the notoriety of  Paupiah became a byword in common parlance. In the wake of corrupt administration and continuous  official misdeeds, the  Holland brothers name was on the line.  They became unpopular  to such an extent  Jon Holland had been  relieved of the Governorship and Edward ­Holland was fired from the Board of Revenue, Reason:  misappropriation of funds and ­amassing huge wealth through bribes. No sooner had William Medows  become the new Governor than  Haliburton appealed to him  to constitute a commission in July 1792 to go into the bottom of the misdeeds done by the Holland brothers and his cronies including their Dubhasi Avadhanum Paupiah, and their  his role in relieving him  swindling both Government and private parties. The accomplices of  Paupiah, Avadha­num Thangasami, his brother, Appay­yangar, a relative, and Venka­tacha Chetty admitted their roles before the Commission. 
Paupiah was tried between 11 and 13 July 1792 for conspiracy against David Haliburton in the Court of Quarter Sessions presided over by  Gov. Charles Medows  assisted by three Justices of Peace.    All four accused were sentenced to imprisonment and fine and were ordered to stand in the pillory for an hour.  Paupiah was jailed  for three years and fined £ 2000 in addition.

After 
Paupiah's release from the jail, his misfortune never stopped and now a commission of inquiry in 1808 by the govt. had  found in Paupiah’s residence  evidence to prove his role in a  large number of forged bonds in the names of various Nawabs of the Carnatic  in the country. The holders of the genuine bonds agitated for repayment of the value of the bonds. The committee found that  Paupiah had swindled  very large amount. Prosecution for forgery was instituted against Paupiah, but he passed away  in 1809 before the trial prosecution. 

The scheme was exposed by Lord Cornwallis, the Governor-General of India who unraveled the corrupt practices of the Hollands. The Hollands managed to escape and sail to England, but Paupiah was convicted along with three other Indians.

There is a street named after Paupiah in Choolai, Chennai where his popularity as a swindler remains etched today. There are many streets named after debhasis  such as Thambu Chet­ty Street, Lingi Chetty Street, Sunga Raman Chetty Street in George Town and Pachiyappan Street in Chetput among others.Dubash is generally used to refer to  a cheat or fraudulent person.  Even  today the word dubakoor is being frequently used as a slang in Tanil movies  to refer to a cheat.

'Paupiah's trial' was the subject of a 1793 book of the same title by David Haliburton.  Its co-author was Scottish writer Sir Walter Scott.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Avadhanum_Paupiahhttp://madrasmusings.com/Vol%2018%20No%2023/the-dubashes-of-olde-madras.html

http://www.common-place-archives.org/vol-09/no-04/forum/opal.shtml

Inspiring Thrikkakara Vamana Temple, Kerala - a major center of Onam festival

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Thrikkakara Vamana Temple. kerala templepurohit.com

There are a few temples in India dedicated to Lord Vamana,  a dwarf-monk avatar of Sri Vishnu. Thrikkakara Temple (also called Thirukatkarai in Thrikkakara, Kochi  is popular  one in Kerala.  Located  about 10 km north east of  Kochi, it gains the most attention of the entire state  during the  popular Onam festival. It is  one of the 108 Divyadesam shrines sung in praise of the lord by the Tamil Vaishnavite saints Azhavars centuries ago.  
Thrikkakara_Templetrawell.in

The Chuttu-Vilakkuduring Onam at Thrikkakara temple. en.wikipedia.org
The temple complex, which is a big one, is in the midst of a picturesque place offering a quiet ambiance. In the grabagriha or Srikovil the idol of  God Vamana is enshrined  with lord's right foot raised to be placed on the head of demon king Mahabali.  As to the origin of this temple, correct date is not mentioned, however, it is said, it was established by lord Parasurama, yet another avatar of Sri Vishnu. Records mention that the earliest Onam festival took place  here during  861 A.D. 

Other deities included here are  Bhagavati, Sasthavu, Gopalakrishna, Naga, Brahmarakshasa and Yakshi. Located in the outer complex is the shrine dedicated to  Brahmarakshasa along with a Banyan-tree god and the Sarpa Kavu. Surrounding the inner complex walls is a series of thousands of lamps with brackets fixed to the walls called ''Chuttuvilakku'' (surrounding lamps'), a common feature in many Kerala Hindu temples. The complex has two temple tanks (in Tamil Kulam or Pushkarani) - one is  close to the temple on the Northern side of the sanctum  and  the other one is on the Northern side outside the temple walls. The former can be accessed only by temple priests  who bathe in the tank before starting daily puja  rituals and the latter is used regularly during the Aaraattu ritual - ceremonial bath of the idol during Onam celebrations.

Yet another unique feature in this temple complex is the presence of  a Shiva temple besides the main Vamanamoorthy temple, In places like Tamil Nadu it is rare to see both lord Shiva and lord Vishnu temples in the same complex.The Shiva temple has  idols of  Ganesha, Karthikeya and Durga. About the origin of the temple, details are vague;  it underwent renovation about  a hundred years ago. As for Vamana temple, it was renovated in 2014.


 During Kerala's most popular festival Onam, no other temple gets as much attention  as the  Vamana temple at Thrikkakara. Considered as the prime center of Onam celebrations, it is said to be the abode of  King Mahabali, an Asura (demon)  who was subdued by lord Mahavishnu.  The  Onam festival - a ten day event is celebrated here with bhakti and religious fervor  in the Malayalam month of Chingam. The temple houses the main deity Vishnu in the avatar of  Lord Vamana. During the festival   a pyramidal statue, symbolic of Lord Vamana, is installed as a mark  of honour at all other sites of the celebration, and named ''Thrikkakara-appan''. It is believed that the temple stands in the place where king Mahabali is said to have been pushed to the underworld - Patala by Lord Vamana with his foot, thus marking the birth of the Onam festival. The etymology of the name Thrikkakara ('Thiru-kaal-kara' meaning 'place of the holy foot') is also derived this way. Some of the interesting  events associated with   the Onam festival at Thrikkakara are Arts performances, Flag-hoisting and lowering,  Atthachamayam procession and finale:Onam feast:Decoration of idol Processions.
 
 The Onam festival is the main festival of this temple jointly organized by the 61 Naduvazhis (local rulers) under the leadership of the Maharajah of Travancore. The Onasadya or the Onam feast is held in a grand manner in the temple with people of various faiths and religions turning out in large numbers for the Sadya event. That it is a symbol of religious unity, humanity and equality is the hallmark of this festival.   

The last one - procession of idol of Vamana  is an interesting one; main deity Vamana on a ceremonial caparisoned elephant is taken around the temple, accompanied by a  herd  of about eight caparisoned elephants and  Panchavadyam (drums). The procession  stops for a while  at each of the temple gates (East, West, North and South), and finally proceeds  back to  temple.  The Utchavanurthy will be reverentially kept in the sanctum by the temple priest.  

The temple also observes important festivals in the Hindu calendar such as Vishu, Diwali, Makar Sankranti, Navrathri and Saraswati Puja not on a scale as Onam The temple is being managed by  the Travancore Devaswom Board. 

Tit-bits:
Thrikkakara Vamana Temple. kerala vaikhari.org
The mythology related to Mahabali is a known one. Any way,  I have given a brief account.  According to the  Bhagavata Purana  Lord Vishnu took the incarnation as a dwarf mendicant to restore the authority of Indra, the King of the heaven, as Mahabali, an asura, took control of it.  Grandson of Prahlada, an ardent devotee of Vishnu, Bali was  known for his charity. When sage Vamana, in the guise of a Brahmin sage, carrying a wooden umbrella, approached the king  to grant him three strides of land, he granted the request,  despite his  guru Sukracharya's warning. Vamana, then revealed his identity and  grew big, stretching heaven and earth. His two strides covered heaven and earth.  Standing tongue-tied, King Mahabali, unable to fulfill his promise, offered his head for his third step. Vamana then placed his foot and gave the king immortality for his humility. In giant form, Vamana is known as ''Trivikrama''
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thrikkakara_Temple





 






Historical Padri-Ki-Havelii, a Catholic Church in Patna city where Mother Theresa stayed

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Catholic church Padri_Ki_Haveli  thesouthindianpost.com


atholic church Padri_Ki_Havelitravelshoebum.com
There is no state in India that does not  churches built  before the 19th century and many of them are Catholic churches built by the English.  Churches built by the French are in Pondicherry, S.India and in West Bengal.  Likewise Churches built by the Portuguese are in Kerala, Goa, Tamil Nadu and Bengal, the places they visited for trade purposes. As for Goa on the west coast of India it was a Portuguese colony for a long time. Most of the churches built by the Europeans have fine architecture.  Padri-Ki-Haveliis a Catholic Church in Patna city  is quite well-known.

Padri-Ki-Haveli, a Catholic Church  is the oldest one in the state Bihar.  Close to 
Har Mandir, it was built in 1713 by Father 
Joseph from Rovato with ample support from the followers of Roman Catholics Cathedral of the Blessed Virgin Mary. It was during  1772-1779 a major renovation work was undertaken  under the guidance of Tirreto, a Venetian architect, who came from Calcutta. Architecturally well designed, the church's structure is an impressive one with minute details and artistic work. The earlier building was a small one. This church with a big dome and a fine pedimented iconic portico has bell donated in 1782   by Bahadur Shah, son of Prithvi Narayan , the Maharaja of Nepal.  Measuring  L70ft X W 40 ft  X Ht, 50 feet of height. the church was subject to many raids and in the wake of skirmishes between English traders  and the soldiers of of Nawab Mir Kasim, the puppet Nawab of Bengal,  Padri Ki Haveli  was looted and in the mayhem that followed  the ancient records kept inside the church were destroyed and burnt.


In 1857 there was a widespread uprising by the Indian soldiers against the unjust and oppressive English Company rule across north India,  The great rebellion was a period of hell-bent rioting, looting and killing and during this period, the church had to bear the attack by the rampaging soldiers and people. 

Mother Teresa of Calcutta  could not  form a congregation because she lacked medical training to serve the sick. Hence, she came to the Holy Family Hospital in Patna to  get training in  first aid. During that period she had stayed here at the church for three month in 1948. Thus this place of worship is  sanctified by a divine soul who cared for the  poor and downtrodden. The small room where she stayed is still well preserved and is  part of the Missionaries of Charity house. The room has many things,
like cot, table etc., used by Mother Teresa during her stay. A  message on the  board in front of the room mentions  “Mother Teresa, who started her mission of love after undertaking training at Padri Ki Haveli, stayed in this room, 1948.”  Mother Teresa, who was beatified by Pope John Paul II on October 19, 2003.  After joining the Loreto Sisters of Dublin, she came to India in 1929 and took the name Sister Teresa.  Before becoming a social worker  to care for  the 'poorest of the poor, Mother Teresa had  spent 17 years teaching and as principal of St Mary's High School in Kolkata.

Today, the church is a popular one in Patna being visited by lots of people of different faiths. 
https://www.rediff.com/news/2003/oct/20teresa.html

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Padri_Ki_Haveli











Sri Varadaraja Perumal Temple,Tirunelveli (TN) - one of the oldest temples in South India

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Sri Varadaraja Perumal TempleTirunelveli,TN trawell.in/tamilnadu
Located close to the Tirunelveli Railway junction - roughly one kilo meter  Sri Varadaraja Perumal Temple is believed to be one of the oldest Hindu temples in South India.  A temple of great antiquity the presiding deity is  Lord Vishnu. The lord is known as  Veeraraghavan (moolavar) and the Ustava Moorthy is Sri Varadharaja Perumal, after whom the temple is named. This perumal temple has close link with Sri Vanamamalai Mutt, Nanguneri. The tradition has been that H.H. Vanamamalai Jeer swamigal gets the  first  honour and respect in this temple.

The legend has it  the ruler king Krishnavarma accidentally found an idol made of blue stone while bathing in Thamirabarani River. Being pious as he was upon consulting the elders and the Pandits, he had a temple built and enshrined the deity and named him Varadaraja Perumal.  Spending much of his time in prayer and meditation on Sri Rama, little did he realize that he had to face wars for which he did not prepare his army. He intensely prayed to the Lord to protect him, his subjects and his land from ensuing invasion by the enemies. Responding to the  king's sincere prayer and trust he had in him, the God  himself was on the battlefield in his divine form and drove the invading army helter skelter. The ruler had a divine vision and the lord appeared before him as Veeraraghava, a symbol of valor and bravery.  King Krishnavarma's joy knew no bounds that led him to  construct this temple for Lord Veeraraghavan to express his gratitude.
Tirunelvel, TN mapsofindia.com
Here the lord's consorts are goddesses Vedhavalli Thayar and Perundevi Thayar and they have separate shrines.  There are other shrines dedicated to  Yoga Narasimhar, Azhwars, Vikshwasenar, Garuda and  others. Here God Hanuman is facing  lord  Veeraraghavan in praying posture.

Among the temple festivals the10-day Chithirai festival during April-May is an interesting one and attracts lots of devotees. The other festivals are  annual Abishek festival in May - June, Adi festival, Krishna Jayanthi and Sri Ramanavami . Hanumath Jayanthi  is also celebrated for 10 days in the Tamil month of Marghazi (December- January).  Five days of Unjal utsavam starts with deepavali. In Karthigai month "Sokkapanai" festival is celebrated on the full moon day. Alwar thirunakhsatrams and related Uthsavams are celebrated regularly every year.
A new car (Ratham) was  offered in May 2015 (chitrai brahmosthavam) to Lord Varadharaja swamy by Sri Lakshmi Vallabha trust with  help  from the  public, The car/chariot  (ratham) is 32 feet  tall and 13 feet wide with as many as beautiful  350 teak wood carvings 52 chiming bells in it.
https://www.trawell.in/tamilnadu/tirunelveli/sri-varadaraja-perumal-temple

Sri_Varadharaja_Perumal_Kovilhttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sri_Varadharaja_Perumal_Kovil

Patna massacre, India -German military officer Rheinhardt 'Sombre' massacred colonial British officials

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Walter Rheinhardt 'Sombre' massacred the British in colonial Indiaflickr.com

Patna Cemetery, a legacy of struggle between the Nawab of Bengal and the English trading company, East India company in the 18th century is  historically an important European monument in Patna city. It is in a place  which was once a  haveli, now a Patna city hospital right across the Padri-Ki-Haveli- the Catholic church, the first one in Bihar built in 1713 by Father Joseph  Rovato. The cemetery has  an obelisk on the site - well. It was erected   in memory of 47 Englishmen, who were mercilessly massacred on orders from Nawab Mir Qasim on the 6th and 11th of October,
1763 by Don Samru (Walter Reinhardt Sombre), a German  free booter in the army of Nawab Mir Qasim. The corpses were all thrown into a deep well over which a high minar was erected afterwards. The existing obelisk was built in 1880 in the place of that erected under captain Watson’s supervision in 1765. among the tombs in the cemetery are those of captain Kinloch , who commanded the expedition to Nepal in 1767. 
Patbna, Bihar cemetery bl.uk/on
 Above image: Patna European cemetery - Watercolour of the European cemetery in Patna from 'Views by Seeta Ram from Patna to Benares Vol. II' produced for Lord Moira, afterwards the Marquess of Hastings, by Sita Ram between 1814-15. Lord Moira, the Governor-General of Bengal and the Commander-in-Chief 
(r. 1813-23), was accompanied by artist Sita Ram (flourished c.1810-22) to illustrate his journey from Calcutta to Delhi between 1814-15.........................................

Disputes between Mir Qasim, the Nawab of Bengal (r.1760-63) and the British company's army resulted in a massacre where about 60 Europeans died in Patna.The cemetery has obelisk-shaped tombs and monuments, and on the right the pillar above the grave of the victims. an inscription that reads: 'European Burying ground at Patna.'
Colonial Indiamtholyoke.edu
To get to know how the massacre of British soldiers and civilians  took place, we have to the early phases of East India Company's early  trading activities in Bengal in 1700s.
After the  dishonest victory at the battle  Plassey in 1757 against Nawab Siraj-ud-daulah' army, Robert Clive had established  the rule of the British in Bengal and left for England  with a big booty on 3 Friary 1760. Henry Vansittart -reign:1759 to 1764 became the chief of Ft. William, Calcutta to look after the company operations. Now armed with ruling powers, the council of the Company confirmed Mir Qasim as the new Nawab of Bengal (reign:1760 to 1763) on 20 October 1760 replacing his father-in-law Nawab Mir Jaffer the man who helped the English company defeat Nawab Siraj and who later killed him in collusion with the British officials.  The British thought they could use Mir Kasim as a puppet  who could of great service to the company and get as  much trade concessions as possible. Over a period of time Mir Qasim realized his folly and understood what the wily British were up to. His relationship with the company became soured  because there were many private British traders operating  illegally side by side with EIC, not paying duty/tax and the Nawab's treasury incurred heavy loss. of revenue. 


Mir Qasim moved his court to Munger, Bihar  when Gov. Vansittart met the Nawab and assured him to take suitable action on the private traders who did not pay  tax taxes. At Calcutta the Council members protested to the governor regarding payment of taxes, etc. Further, they argued, the Nawab was only a representative of the Mogul ruler and had no authority over them  or the company as they got the permit from the Mogul king. The council sent two members to Munger to warn Kasim who captured them both. Later Kasim seized a boat laden with arms destined for factory and garrison  at Patna. Negotiations having been failed between the Nawab and the EIC, in June 1763 the British army plundered Patna and attacked the citizens. Nawab's army gave no resistance. 

When Mir Kasim  at Munger was informed about the seizure of Patna by the British, he was furious. Just 15 miles away , Nawab Qasim sent his powerful army to recapture Patna. On 1 July 1763 there took place a big battle at Manjihi and subsequently there were many  skirmishes and numerous killings. Again in October when he heard the British capture of fort in Manger, he was in rage and at that time English officials like Fullerton, Hay, Ellis were in Qasim army's custody in the house of one Haji Ahmed. Qasim asked Rienhardt,  a German commander serving him to kill all the English.  Known as Somru, he came to India to serve in the EIC army. He also served the Rajah of Bhartpur and Mogul ruler Shah Alam; the latter gave him a big estate at Sardhana, UP. He married a beautiful slave girl Begum Sombru - Zeb-un-nissa).
Nawab of Bengal. Mir Qasim  en.wikipedia.org/

On the night of 5 October 1763 he came to the house of Haji Ahmed and had all of them killed with musket fire, He neither had remorse nor scruples as to kill all without any reason. The dead included 16 civilians and 35 army men including surgeons, Among the civilian included a lady and children . The only survivor was Fullerton. A pillar was erected in 1880 during the time of Gov. Ashly Eden with inscriptions of 28 names. Before that, EIC got the the house where the massacre of the British had taken place.  
 http://www.bl.uk/onlinegallery/onlineex/apac/addorimss/t/019addor0004704u00000000.html







Historical Church Basilica of our Lady of Graces, Sardhana, India

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Church Basilica of our lady of Graces, Sardhana, India Main Altar en.wikipedia.org
Church Basilica of our lady of Graces, Sardhana, Indiakiwicolors.wordpress.com/
Our lady of Gracess, Sardhana. India sardhanachurch.org
The historical dusty town of Sardhana,  just 22 km away from the city of Meerut, has nothing of special interest to the tourists except one  place. It is that of a fine  catholic church built by a benevolent  Muslim Queen by the name of Zebunnissa. Perhaps. you may be haunted by a couple of questions : What made a Muslim woman build a church here? Did she not face protests from her conservative Muslim community? The historical fact is this young girl's intense romance with  a European military man changed her perception in her faith and later she became a Catholic in May 1781; her new Christian  name was Joanna. Being a young girl, she impressed on  Walter Reinhardt Sombre,  a mercenary, later married him despite a big age difference between them,  and  assumed the name of Begum Samru. Walter Reinhardt worked with the various Indian rulers including EIC and the French army;  his close association with Nawab Najab Khan of Bengal.was quite beneficial to him and from him  he received the jagir of  Saldhana.  He was almost like a mini ruler of the area with all luxuries associated with it with his own palace, troops, etc.
The church at Sardhana, India, Pinrest.

The church at Sardhana,, India  Statue of Sampru Begam tribuneindia.com
 After the death of her husband Reinhardt, Queen Sambru assumed the reign of Sardhana and proved her administrative and military skill.  She was kind and considerate to her subjects. Being a devotee of Mary, she had been planning to build a church for the divine lady. In 1822, she had a church built designed by an Italian architect Antonio  Reghelini. It was dedicated  to Virgin Mary and  the cost of  construction work was roughly rupees four lakh, a small amount for a prosperous woman  Now this basilica comes under the parish of the Catholic Diocese of Meerut. It is the only mini basilica in North India and there are  more than 20 mini basilicas across India. Including this church many of her buildings are well taken care of by the authorities.
Church Basilica of our lady of Graces, Sardhana, India.justdialcom
Sardhana, I have head people tell me that it is a very small, quiet town  and when you are at a distance in the town  you will never fail to notice  the  tall steeples,
the graceful  statue of Jesus Christ with  his arms stretched out symbolic of welcoming gesture and nice Gothic architecture.  The main alter is quite striking made  of high quality white marble  inlaid with a floral design.  In the  the altar surrounded by brightly-colored artificial flowers, you will see the icon of Virgin Mary holding the infant Jesus, clad in red and blue clothes. On the other side of the main hall stands a  beautiful statue of Virgin Mary with her cherubic child. On second Sunday of November every year, this place is  crowded with roughly 100000 worshipers to offer their prayer to Mary. Tradition has been that wishes made here with trust in Mary's healing power  will never  go unfulfilled. The church is at the center of a fair during this particular time.

The tomb of Begum Samru with her life-size image on it is in the left wing of the church. The statue of the Begum, that was once kept out side the church, was moved into this place and set on the  raised three-tiered pedestal.  There are fine carved features in the marble. One shows the  Begum on an elephant, with her retinue  and in the other, the Begum is offering a chalice to the Pope. On the third side stands the tableau of the Begum receiving petitions from her courtiers. While she is surrounded by Indian soldiers in the first one, the second depiction has her surrounded by Europeans.  The statues of  her son, her Hindu vizier and pastor are set below her statue. As for her son's tomb and that of her husband, they  lie at the foot of the central tableau.

It was on December 13, 1961, Pope John XXIII decided to upgrade the Sardhana Church to the status of a Minor Basilica. This recognition is given only to historically important churches. The Golden Jubilee Commemoration took place in 2007 that was attended by a  delegation from the Vatican, including the Ambassador.
 https://www.tribuneindia.com/2007/20071111/spectrum/main5.htm













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Irresistible Begum Sambru of Sardhana, India - wife of military commander Walter Reinhardt Sombre

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Begum Samru of Sardhana.eventshigh.com
Once in  a while we have heard about rags-to-riches stories  of  men   who succeed  in their lives from hard- boiled days to those  of comfortable ones through sheer hard work, perseverance, guts  and ability to absorb failures in the early stages besides having a bit of luck.  Such people always stand apart  in our society and get recognition for their hard-earned wealth. Have you ever heard of a nautch girl (dancing girl) with a bleak future who  had  become not only rich but also an effective ruler of a small land in north India in the 1700s.   Born Zebunnissa (also Farzana)  in a Muslim community,  she began her  career  as a dancing girl and earned a name for his charity and efficient rule. She was one of the colorful characters in Indian history that saw the chaotic Mogul period and their gradual collapse and the imminent growth of the British empire on the horizon. 


Walter Reinhardt Sombre, a native of Luxembourg (his nativity is uncertain)  worked as a military commander for many rulers in the 18th century  - the French Army and later  for the Nawab of Bengal  Mir Qasim and others. While in the Nawab's service, he was blamed for a gruesome massacre of  more than 30 English captives at Patna. Later on, Walter Reinhardt was on his own  maintaining  his own mercenary army, in which Jats also served. 

 In 1765, 45 year old Walter  went into Khanum Jan’s kotha in Delhi’s Chawri Bazaar for an evening of  fun and entertainment and ran into  a charming and good looking  Kashmiri dancer, Zebunnissa and developed intimacy with her. The girl soon moved into his zenana and in those days Europeans maintained large harems, and  walter Reinhardt already had children from a previous concubine, Barri Bibi. He soon  married  Zebunnissa and  the girl  came to be  known as Begum Samru. The couple moved from Lucknow to Agra, Deeg and Bharatpur and back to Doab.  In May 1781 Zebunnissa was baptized and became a catholic and her name having been changed to  Christian  name -Joanna.  Begum Joanna Nobilis “Samru” is an unlikely feminist icon from the 18th century.
goodreads.com
The quick-witted and smart woman became Walter's  companion, confidante and advisor in  his services to various nobles. Sombre soon started working for the Jat rulers of Deeg, who were then occupying Agra. In 1773, the Mogul ruler  Najaf Khan expelled the Jats from Agra and invited   Sombre’s troops to join his army. He lived in Delhi for three long years  during that period had developed contacts at higher level with help from Begum Samru who was a woman of affable nature. With a royal ''sanad'' from ruler  Shah Alam, Walter  received the rich jagir of Sardhana, yielding Rs 6 lakh yearly (more than  Rs 30 crore in today's value). The penniless couple became wealthy overnight and Begam  Samru  became civil and military governor of Agra. Their association  with ruler Shah Alam was a turning point in  their lives not only in terms of power but also in terms of monetary benefits. It tuned Walter into a  mini ruler of the area with  his own paraphernalia, army and other trappings associated with it with royal patronage.
Samru's Palace, Chandni Chowk, Delhi,1857, after Indian Rebellion of 185wikipedia

Above image: Ruined Bhagirath Palace, Delhi. Begum Samru's palace in Chandni Chowk  was built in a garden gifted by ruler Akbar Shah of Mogul dynasty to the Begum when he ascended the throne after the death of Shah Alam .............................................

Catholic church in Sardana, UP.en.wikipedia.org
 Above image: Inscription on the Statue of Begum Samru at the Basilica of Our Lady Of Graces in Sardhana, near Meerut city.

Begam Sambru estate, Delhi - occupied by a bank (SBI) tripadvisor.com
After Sombre's death, his Begum  became the legal heir to the small kingdom . Having been associated with her husband for a long time, she had some exposure to administration and command of her husband's army.  She had  80-plus European officers and 4,000-odd soldiers to defend her small kingdom. Apart from being a benevolent ruler she was a capable leader on the battlefield and was familiar with nuances of military strategies.  She was humane and considerate to her subjects. Obviously,  she wielded significant political and social influence in the late 18th and early 19th centuries during  last phases of Mogul rule in India. Being a Christian convert,  she was a true devotee of Virgin Mary and  had a church built in Sardhana, near Meerut, UP. The church is known for its impressive Greek colonnaded veranda and an elevated altar with a stained glass dome  The shrine, the Basilica of our Lady of Graces built in 1822, is one of the oldest catholic churches in north India and the only one mini Basilica in north India.
www.amazon.
She had a flair for buildings and had built many, but many of them  have disappeared and gone for ever because of neglect and  poor maintenance. If you walk through  Sardhana, once her fiefdom, the Begum's skill and aura can be felt in almost  all the buildings that were built strong and sturdy by her. Many of her remaining buildings need repair and restoration as  no due attention has not been  paid to them.  Begum's house in Chandni Chowk, Delhi is occupied by a bank and in the its adjoining area  there is the electrical goods market, Bhagirath Palace, her palace in Gurgaon, built in Islamic style could not survive after 2008. because of unauthorized encroachments by the greedy private business people.

Tomb of Begum Samru, Church of Sardhana, near Meerut. ww.youtube.com
Begum Samru died on 27 January 1836 at the age of 90 and was buried under the Basilica of Our Lady of Graces which she had built. Walter Sombre died in Agra on 4 May 1778. He was buried in the Agra churchyard. Regarded as the only Roman Catholic ruler in Indian history, it is a sad story, Begum Samru is almost forgotten in Delhi where she had political and social influence  during the last phases  of Mughal rule in India.  Incidentally,  her adopted son  was David Dyce Sombre and her Diwan, Rae Singh who was the great-grandfather of Motilal Nehru. http://archive.indianexpress.com/news/a-queens-magnificent-church/996392
https://swarajyamag.com/magazine/the-incredible-story-of-begum-samru 

Begum sambru's kothi (State bank of India building), Chandini Chowk, Delhi - a unique heritage site

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SBI bldg. Chandini Chowk,Delhi. asianage.com
The majestic  simple looking but impressive four-story building in Chandini Chowk, New Delhi  has certain interesting episodes of Indian history frozen in it  such as the fall of Mogul rule, rise of imperial power and the 1857 war of independence and at last the freedom of India from the British yoke. In  this respect it is historically an important structure and ignoring its heritage value is a foolish thing. This 80-foot tall colonial building built in 1806 houses the oldest branch of the State Bank of India - SBI, and one of the largest in the country even today. Also you will find here in the reception area is the mini-museum, highlighting unknown valuable information. Once it was part of Begum Samru's estate, often referred to as Samru's kothi.
State bank of India bldg. once begum Samru's kothi. Delhi asianage.com
State bank of India bldg. once begum Samru's kothi. Delhi.Flicker.com
Architecturally, one of the most valuable 19th century buildings in Chandni Chowk it was in 2002, it was declared as a heritage building and its past link with Indian history is a forgotten foot note.  What is special about this old structure? This imposing Palladian structure carries a typical European style  with  Corinthian columns, balustrade terrace, arched doorways, spiral iron staircase, old English lifts, and tinted glass windows  and   Corinthian columns.

The Bank of Delhi in 1847 bought the building in which tragedy struck the English manager during the 1857 Indian Rebellion.  The rampaging freedom fighters - mostly soldiers entered the building and killed  the  bank manager George Beresford, his wife, and five daughters  during the siege of Delhi. At this tumultuous point 
of time, the bank was owned by a Brit, Dyce Sombre, and other stakeholders including native businessmen.   According to historians, “Some of the Britons, found hiding in the city, were 
held captive within the palace and were killed on May 16, 1857................... On May 16, about noon, the then Bank of Delhi was attacked and plundered. All its chief servants, after resistance, were massacred. Mr Beresford, the manager of the Delhi Bank, took refuge with his wife and family on the roof of one of the outbuilding...................... But despite fierce resistance from Beresford and his wife, they were both killed along with five others. They are buried in the St James Church and a plaque has been put up in their memory.”
SBI bldg. Chandini Chowk,Delhi.thecitizen.in
 The Imperial Bank of India, the predecessor of SBI, later bought this imposing building. The Reserve Bank of India (RBI) operated from here too. During the Delhi siege the soiled and mutilated notes  were burned in the incinerator  and one can see the marks visible in the courtyard.

After the bank was declared a heritage building in the year 2002 soon  in order to preserve the legacy and heritage value of this oldest structure in Delhi, restoration work had begun in earnest - sandstone steps were replaced with cement; the original iron railings with new ones.  To preserve the classical elements in this structure, finally lime plaster was done on the wall interior, in the facade and upper veranda. Wrought iron railings replaced the existing railings and wooden windows replaced the concrete screens. The banking hall was repaired and  restored without compromising on its  historical character. https://www.asianage.com/metros/delhi/100717/heritage-sbi-chandni-chowk-building-stands-tall-in-changing-times.html
https://swarajyamag.com/magazine/the-incredible-story-of-begum-samru

Colonial Chartered Bank building of Kolkata - first bankers in ''Opium trade with China''

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-Standard Chartered Bank, Kolkata, India. dolphin.blogspot.com/
The Chartered Bank of India, Australia & China, founded by the granting of its Royal Charter  by Queen Victoria in 1853,  opened its first branch in Bombay and Calcutta in 1857.   The Chartered Bank's  founder was  one James Wilson and the  earliest branches were in Mumbai, Kolkata and Shanghai. Today’s Standard Chartered Bank was formed in 1969 when Standard Bank of British South Africa merged with The Chartered Bank of India, Australia and China.  In the  early colonial period  under the English company (EIC),  Shanghai and Hong Kong cities saw the operations of this bank which played no less role  in both Indian and Chinese banking during the days of the British Empire,  particularly, when the opium trade was in full swing. The British got the Chinese hooked on to opium addiction and the  successful opium trade operations in China helped Britain improve  her Silver reserve in the treasury. Incidentally, Bihar, India was the main producer of opium, followed by Maharastra. In reality, opium was exported to China  from India illegally.
Standard Chartered Bank, Kolkata, India. lbb.in/kolkata
 Quite absorbing is the impressive  and imposing  bank building  in Calcutta and it bears testimony to the British  bank's status as one of the great British colonial bankers in Asia. Then its competitor was  the Hong kong & Shanghai Bank which  is  at a short distance  on the south side of Dalhousie Square. The historic structure  is across  Allahabad Bank’s headquarters in the heart of the city and became  home to the National Bank of India’s Kolkata branch in 1902.
Standard Chartered Bank, Kolkata, India. lbb.in/kolkata/
This big and beautiful  building was  built in  almost Byzantine-style using a theme of round arches crowned by octagonal corner towers. The striking feature are  110 ft tall  clock tower  on the China Bazar St side  and the 135 ft tall entrance tower on the Clive
Charted bank, Kolkata. double-dolphin.blogspot.com
Street (NS road) facade  above the main entrance to the banking hall. The architect was  Calcutta-based Edward Thornton who was known for his exotic colonial designs.  The look of this building is enhanced by the contrasting red brick bands  with the Porbunder stone specially brought from  Bombay. The plinth of the building is made of Chunar stone with Porbunder stone to face the ground floor exterior with Cornish granite for the columns guarding the main entrance. The other striking feature is the  wrought-iron  entrance gates imported from England. The building contractor was the famed Calcutta-based contractors Martin & Co., owned by  Sir Rajen Mookerjee. Built in 1908,  the cost of construction was INR 9,62,000.  The building was originally owned by the Maharaja of Burdwan, and was leased to the Chartered Bank. Additions were made  to its current form in 1914 to accommodate the bank’s growing business.

A whooping 80,000 sq ft space built in the 19th century, the bank had inherited the NS Road property from ANZ Grindlays  and London-based bank decided in Sept. 2015 to sell this iconic building in Kolkata to tide over certain financial impediments that strangled the company's future growth.  A StanChart India spokesperson said,"As part of our ongoing process to achieve better efficiency, we are divesting our branch office at 19 NS Road in Kolkata."The bank demanded Rs.100 crores for this colonial building. It is an irony the British bank is selling the property and others in Kolkata where it had begun its lucrative banking odyssey related to India-China opium trade. 

The oldest foreign bank in India (that has more than 110 years   history behind it) -  Standard Chartered Bank's decision to sell its earliest building was a sad story in its banking history.
 https://realty.economictimes.indiatimes.com/news/commercial/standard-chartered-bank-to-sell-its-iconic-kolkata-office-for-rs-110-crore/49068476
https://www.flickr.com/photos/23268776@N03/3030059680/in/photolist-5BKRbh-9ssrBr-hYGtmd-r

Last Mogul ruler Bahadur Shah Zafar and the discovery of his tomb in Yangon, Myanmar

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Last Mogul ruler. Bhadur Shah Zafar  lighteddream.wordpress.com
Tomb of Emperor Bahadur Shah Zafar, Ynkon, Myanmar  triphobo.com

In the last phases of the first war of independence (Many historians view that Sepoy mutiny is a wrong title) in 1857 by Indian soldiers and others  against the British  misrule rule,  their exploitation and racial discrimination it turned more violent and sensational. Dubbed as the  most important anti-colonial revolt against  a European empire in the 19th centuryit shook the basic foundation of the British rule in India. The last Mogul ruler Zafar  who was reduced to a powerless ruler with jurisdiction in and around Delhi with yearly dole from the English company publicly supported the rebellion though he was against violence and his entry angered the British. 

Against Zafar's  wish, Sepoys ­­– native soldiers both Hindus and Muslims, who were in the employ of  the East India Company, made him their commander-in-chief, because  as there was no charismatic leader worth his name  to lead them and further he was  was liked by both  Hindus and Muslims. In the midst of Delhi siege that followed mayhem, violent riots and killings, the Europeans were hiding in Zafar's  palace to escape from the fury of the hell-bent mob. Without Mogul ruler's  knowledge,  the  rebels inside the palace killed as many as of 52 Europeans hiding there.  Despite his non-involvement and just because he was the leader of the rebels, the British accused Zafar of having instigated the cold-blooded killing of the British in the palace.  

Fearing safety of his family members,  Bahadur Shah Zafar and his wife Zeenat Mahal had escaped to Humanyun’s tomb near Delhi.  The British had him and his wife captured under the command of  Hodson and his spy Maulvi Rajab Ali,  who negotiated with the emperor,  of safety to his life. The emperor and his wife Zeenat walked back to Delhi as British prisoners.  Following day,  Major Hodson went back to  Humanyun’s tomb  to capture the three princes, Mirza Mughal, Khizr Sultan, and Abu Baker, the heirs to the Mogul ruler on assurance they would be spared. They were on the way to Delhi in a bullock cart before a huge  mob.  They were at the Khuni Darwaza near the city walls of Delhi, Hodson’s next action was horrible, gory and in human. No sooner  had he ordered the princes to be  stripped  naked than  Hodson shot them dead in cold blood. No remorse, nothing of that sort and he did it with glee.  He then stripped the corpses of their rings and their bejeweled swords, and later he boasted that he  disposed off the principal members of the family of Timur, the Tartar. To cap it all Major William Hodson,  presented  ruler Zafar the decapitated heads of his three legal heirs.
1957,Delhi:dagger seized  seized Hodson  lighteddream.wordpress.com
 Above image: khanjar (Khanjar or dagger seized by Major William Hodson at Delhi, 1857 : Hodson probably took this beautiful dagger from one of the Mughal princes, whom he stripped and shot dead on 21 Sept 1857 after their surrender. Alternatively, he may have obtained it later on at the sale of treasures organized by Delhi prize agents. ©National Army Museum, London...................................

The British  implicated Zafar  in the massacre of Europeans and tried him for “treason” and “aiding rebels”. But, the Indian patriots looked upon him as a great hero and  a freedom fighter. The British who were after complete take over of Delhi  found  Zafar guilty and  exiled him to Rangoon, Burma. Thus the British  eliminated the last Mogul ruler and sent him out of Delhi to a far of place.  Soon after the rebellion was subdued by them, the administration came directly under the British Crown,  leading to the creation of the British Raj (1858-1947).

The Mogul ruled the Indian sub-continent for more than three centuries, between the mid 16th and early 18th centuries. Under it, the Indian economy remained prosperous. It had created a uniform currency and road system, unified the country and created great cities. After five years of a very sad  and painful exile in  captivity, deeply humiliated and mentally wounded ruler  Zafar became a wretched  soul  and died in Rangoon on November 7, 1862, at the age of 87.  Just before death he wrote, “Not to be heard, not a spirited song; I am the voice of anguish, a cry of colossal grief. […] Life comes to an end, dusk approaches; in peace I will sleep, sheltered by the grave.”

Zafar with twwo sons. lighteddream.wordpress.com
 In 1876, Britain’s Queen Victoria was proclaimed the Empress of India. In haste, the British buried Zafar according to Islamic rite in Rangoon, Burma (now Yangon, Myanmar).  Later, his wife and granddaughter, Raunaq Zamani were buried alongside him.

It took nearly  century to find Zafar's tomb as the British wanted his tomb to be lost for ever and not to be found again . However, local Muslims living in Yangon knew   for a long time that the Emperor had been  buried somewhere within a definite compound to the south of Shwedagon Pagoda. The spot was covered with over growth of grass and had  simple bamboo fence around it.

 (  Zafar’s grave, Yangon, Myanmar. lighteddream.wordpress.com
It was on February 16, 1991, the civil workers stumbled upon the brick-lined tomb while working. It contained an inscription, and the body’s identity was quickly confirmed.  The skeleton of the Emperor was found wrapped in a silk shroud covered by floral petals only about three-and-a-half feet (one meter) under the ground..
Tomb of Zafar, Myanmar lighteddream.wordpress.com
Above image: In 1862, Zafar  was  87 "weak and feeble"  and in late October his health condition was very poor. The British Commissioner, H.N. Davies, wrote , "very uncertain." He was "spoon-fed on broth,"  On November 6, Davies recorded that Zafar "is evidently sinking from pure desuetude and paralysis in the region of his throat."  Davies made preparations for  the emperor's burial.  Zafar  died on November 7, 1862 at 5 a.m. He was buried at 4 p.m. on the same day "at the rear of the Main Guard in a brick grave covered over with turf level with the ground," according to Davies. The ceremony was attended by his two children and their servant but not Zafar's wife, Zinat Mahal........................

A couple of years later  Bahadur Shah Zafar’s “Dargah” (Sufi shrine), was built at the site of the grave. The current hall, dedicated to the memory of Zafar, was inaugurated on December 15, 1994 by Myanmar’s minister for religious affairs, with the assistance of the Government of India and the presence of the Indian Ambassador. Myanmar’s Muslims, visit this durgah regularly and they honor  Zafar as an “emperor-saint”.  It is a  two-story mausoleum are covered with engraved marble plaques. Nine steps lead to a crypt,

Tit-bits:
It is a bit of irony, just like Zafar  Thibaw, the last King of Burma (1878-1885),  faced defeat and humiliation in the hands of the British  in the Third Anglo-Burmese War. He not only lost the throne and his crown   but also  spent his time in colonial captivity (exiled for twenty-seven years) in Ratnagiri, India where he died in 1916 unsung and unheard of.
 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bahadur_Shah_Zafar_grave_dispute
https://www.mmtimes.com/lifestyle/9507-grave-secrets-of-yangon-s-imperial-tomb.html

 https://lighteddream.wordpress.com/2016/01/17/1857-uprising-the-sigh-of-the-oppressed-exploring-kashmiri-gate/










The sensational Barrackpore Rebellion of 1824.

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Barrackpore mutiny, West Bengal. dnaindia.com
In the annals of India's freedom struggle we are quite familiar with early revolts against the British East India company that began to hold its grip on the Indian subcontinent in the mid 18th century by grabbing the kingdoms one by one and exploiting the Indian natives and natural resources, thus causing resentment and hatred among the patriotic people. By 1824, they had already subdued the mighty Marathas and developed alliance with many rulers like the Nizam of Hyderabad, Mysore kingdom, etc.  On the eastern most front, the Burmese kingdom was a thorn to the EIC operations in Bengal and they made inroad into Manipur and Orissa. The massacre of a  small British garrison in Ramu Nagar, Chittagong by the Burmese forces angered the British  and the rumor that they would probably invade Calcutta made the foreign invaders  sit up and do something about it.Now, the British were at loggerheads with the Burmese kingdom  because their Bengal trading operations would be in serious trouble  if  they kept attacking them.
Barrackpore rebellion, West Bengal  timesofindia.indiatimes.com
Have you ever heard of the ''Barrackpore mutiny''against the British Company in Barrackpore, now in West Bengal?  Yes, this Barrackpore Cantonment was the site of another bloody  rebellion by patriotic Indians who were with the EIC army   thirty-three years before the most  explosive incident (29 March 1857) involving  sepoy Mangal Pandey which finally led to 1857 major ''Indian Rebellion'' against British hegemony which first  began in Meerut Cantonment and had spread to other parts. Prior to thisone held another rebellion called ''Vellore Mutiny'' (July 1806), Vellore Fort, Tamil Nadu. It just lasted a day, but it had a lasting impact  on the English company. In the after math, the soldiers 
were humiliated, blown before the cannons and given harsh
punishment.  
Edward Paget 1775 -  1849 (aged 73), en.wikipedia.org
 The frustrated  native Indian sepoys  revolted against their British officers in Barrackpore in November 1824 for their ill-treatment and discriminatory attitude. The incident  took place when the  EIC waged the  First Anglo-Burmese War between 1824–26. The war war  waged under the then Gov. General of India  William Amherst, 1st Earl Amherst. Every rebellion has core reasons and obviously this revolt had its roots in native Indians' frustration and dejection with respect to lack of sensitivity towards Indian cultural sentiments,  neglect, poor treatment  and poor transportation of their personal items to the war front.  The sepoys of several regiments of the Bengal Native Infantry after a long march from Mathura to Barrackpore were quite upset over  utter lack  of transport for personal effects. Besides,  transportation by sea caused  additional apprehension  and disappointment among caste Hindus as it was against their cultural moorings.  The troops from the 47th Native Infantry refused to march towards Chittagong  (now in Bangladesh) on their way to Burma (Myanmar) as their grievances  and demands remained unfulfilled. 

Insensitive as they were, the English company paid least attention to their just demand. This led to  widespread  dissent among  a sections of other regiments such as  the 26th and 62nd Regiments. To rub salt on injuries, the Commander-in-Chief, India, General Sir Edward Paget,  categorically told them to lay down their arms before  considering their requests for redress.  Upon refusal  by the  sepoys,  the loyal soldiers from the 26th and 62nd Regiments and two British regiments   surrounded their camp.  The sepoys having refused to obey orders within the  specified  time, their camp was attacked with artillery and infantry and  in its wake 180 sepoys were killed including a number of civilian on-lookers. An unscrupulous act on the part of EIC army on its own soldiers whose demands were legitimate. 

Yet another horrible incident that followed it was a number of  protesting soldiers were hanged and others sentenced to long periods of penal servitude. Ultimately, the 47th Regiment was disbanded and its Indian officers  were dismissed, whereas the European officers were  shifted to other regiments. 


The media initially did not report the real story of the grievance of sepoys and their massacre by the English company. Because of suppression of news, only limited information  on the Barrackpore incident  being released to the public. The Parliament came down heavily  on the East India Company government for its irresponsible handling of  sepoys' grievances and the harsh treatment meted out to them.

The following are  the essential facts  of Barrackpore rebellion of November 1824:
01. To take part in  the First Anglo-Burmese War, in October 1824, the troops from 26th, 47th and 62nd Regiments of the Bengal Native Infantry were ordered to march 500 mi (800 km) from Barrackpore  cantonment in Bengal near Calcutta, to Chittagong in preparation for entering Burmese territory.   Already the soldiers had marched from Mathura to Barrackpore, a long distance. Imagine the hardship they went through. 

02. Soldiers refused to  take yet another long tedious journey from Chittagong into Burma.

03. This time they hesitated to fight against the Burmese, an unknown enemy that too their neighbors. Indians had nothing against them. 

03. The high caste Hindus in  the regiments had reservations about crossing the sea due to the 'kala pani'' taboo. Crossing the ocean was  a taboo, in particular, among Brahmins in the past. Such people would be excommunicated.

04. There was lack of transportation facilities for their personal belongings and this forced the soldiers to carry their personal items - cooking utensils, bedding, etc along with their 
knapsacks, muskets and ammunition. They were burdened by fatigue and frustration of carrying heavy stuff beyond their capacity.  

05. There were no bullock carts to transport their stuff.  Their requests to provide them with bullock carts fell on deaf ears. The EIC also refused to pay reasonable baggage allowance for the soldiers considering their long march with heavy additional stuff. 

06. The soldiers of the 47th Native Infantry appeared  for the 1st November parade without their knapsacks and refused to bring them even when ordered to do so. Their contention was no march unless the army provided them with bullock carts  or double baggage allowance, 
07. Commander-in-Chief, India, General Sir Edward Paget asked the soldiers to lay down their arms first then only he would consider their request. Their blunt refusal angered Paget, an old school martinet of Royal Service ; it was tantamount to an act of armed mutiny.  He quickly  summoned two regiments of European troops, the 47th (Lancashire) Regiment of Foot and the 1st (Royal) Regiment, as well as troops of the Governor General's bodyguard from Calcutta. 

08. On the morning of 2 November 1824, the reinforcements and the loyal members of the 26th and 62nd Regiments moved into position and  protesting soldiers were given 10 minute time to obey  orders.  The soldiers refused to budge and now  Gen. Paget ordered two cannons to fire on the rebels, followed by an attack from the rear by the secretly placed horse artillery. Stunned by this unexpected assault, the sepoys ran for safety while other British regiments  began attacking them  from all directions. Some of the sepoys  who jumped into the Hooghly River  died due to drowning; others, who took shelter in the near-by local households.  were chased and killed  with  bayonets including many bystanders - women and children.

09. Of about 1,400 mutineers, 180 were killed during the attack, although the death toll is a subject of discussion.

10. Besides, on 2nd November  eleven sepoys were tagged  as the ring leaders and received a quick  trial, whereby  they were sentenced to death by hanging.

 11. Around 52 sepoys received harsh punishment -  sentenced to fourteen years' hard labor on roads in chains; numerous others were sentenced with lesser terms.

 12. On 9 November, the leader of the soldiers Bindee was hung in chains on the next day. His body was left to rot for months in open public display in Calcutta.

13. In the British parliament, this atrocity by the ESI came up for discussion (22 March 1827) and Joseph Hume, an opposition MP, reported that the number of casualty was from 400–600  as per the "facts that had reached him from India". However ,Charles Williams-Wynn, a Tory MP,  responded  on behalf of the government, that the number was no more than 180. 

14. The Oriental Herald in London first published a story on the subject almost six months after the incident, calling it the "Barrackpore Massacre", based on a report by a British correspondent in Calcutta.  The Oriental Herald severely criticized British officers for the indiscriminate slaughter with out remorse.

15. As expected, no disciplinary measures were taken against Gen. Paget or any other officer of the army, contrary to expectations. M Massacre was committed under the direction of Gen. Paget. Gov. Gen.  Amherst came close to being recalled for mishandling the situation but ultimately retained his position. For further reading: 01. Barrackpore Massacre – Burmese War – Present State of the Native Army in Bengal, The Oriental Herald, Volume 5, 1825. 02.
Refer  to the work of  the 24th Chief of Army Staff of the Indian Army, Major General V.K. Singh (2010–2012),  who wrote extensively about the 1824 Barrackpore mutiny,
 Tit-bits:
 Vellore Mutiny (rebellion) 1806:
10 July 1806.Vellore Mutiny, Tamil Nadu thebetterindia.com
The ‘Sepoy Mutiny’ of 1857,  is considered as the first  war of independence as it shook the very basic foundation of the British Empire.  After it was subdued, the British Crown took  direct control of the the Indian administration - later called the British Raj. 

However, what many people do not know is that prior to the great revolt of 1857 and the Barrackpore revolt of 1824  the Vellore revolt of 1804 witnessed a violent a rebellion albeit a brief one against the British empire. It took place in Vellore town (in Tamil Nadu) on the midnight of 10 July 1806.  It  lasted just one day but the death toll of Indians was over 400 lives. The Indian killed 115 men from the British infantry who were sleeping in their barracks and the mutiny was subdued by cavalry and artillery from Arcot. After formal trial, six mutineers were blown away from guns, five shot by firing squad, eight hanged and five transported to serve imprisonment. The government was critical of John Craddock,
the Commander-in-Chief of Madras Army and refused to pay his passage back to England.
 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vellore_mutiny
 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barrackpore_mutiny_of_1824















Barrackpore House (West Bengal), habitual summer residence of Governor Generals - early colonial period

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Restored Barrackpore House.telegraphindia.com
Summer House of Barrackpore, thefridaytimes.com
The Barrackpore House is a historical building in Barrackpore town (located 14 miles from Calcutta), West Bengal that had been  widely used  as a summer house after 1864  for a long time  by Viceroys and the Governors of Bengal; it was also a sort of   country house on the  week-ends for relaxation free from official commitments. During the heyday of the early colonial rule it was more or less a ''White'' town, more so than any other towns.  The town was characteristic of parallel  well-maintained roads with fine intersections, well-mowed lawns, rows of bungalows each built separately, and near-by Cantonment separated by water body branching off the river with a nice bridge over it, water front facing the river, park, etc.  Particularly, the beautiful  park was widely used for pleasure pursuits.
Summer House of Barrackpore 1807, puronokolkata.com
Mind you, these places were meant only for the white settlers and not for the natives.
Barrackpore House was occupied by as many as twenty-four Governors-General of India until it ceased to be the residence of the Viceroy in 1912. Till such a time the small town  with a placid river was believed to be an enchanting green gem in in the Raj.  After independence, the park and the colonial buildings, including the Government  House were in poor condition due to negligence and poor upkeep. It is a sad story, in countless places in India, the interesting facets of history get lost in the loss of heritage monuments or their disintegration.  Fortunately, in 2016, heritage lovers of Bengal approached the state government  about Barrackpore House and the park and, later with their cooperation and others like Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (Intach), the colonial building and the park along with the bridge, the lotus fountain and the marble sundial were  restored back to old glory, thus preserving  the  heritage value of this wonderful site; it was brought back  almost from  near oblivion.
The Southern Facade of Government House before restoration.thehindu.com
Above image: This summer residence of the Governor-General in Barrackpore, West bengal  was designed by Captain Thomas Anbury, in English Rennaissance style. The watercolor painting was made by Charles Ramus Forrest ....................................................

Fascinated by the quiet and serene ambiance,  Lord Wellesley took over the Commander-in-chief's residence and landscaped the garden with an aviary. He was the first  one to find Barrackpore  more desirable for the race-conscious British people to live a peaceful  life in style in the middle of greenery. The  vast green space reminded him of undulating meadows of the English countryside.  On his visit to the Barrackpore park in 1798, the cool  breeze from the Hoogley river brushed his face and impressed him. Now, he was keen to have a government house built in the middle of a large garden and  a government palace amidst an English park. 

On 31st December, 1800, Wellesley advised Sir Alured Clark, the Commander-in-Chief, that his official residence  was to be used by succeeding Governor Generals.  He acquired 900 bighas  to build a summer resort, much grandeur than the one in Calcutta (Kolkata) for the Governor general and Wellesley  moved into the house temporary built when the construction was on. The estimated cost was  whooping four lakhs of rupees.  While the construction was going on, Wellesley's relationship with the company's board members  was on the lowest ebb  and in July 1805, when its structure had come up to the plinth  level, Wellesley returned to England after  resigning his post. The board thought the outlay of the project being under way was very large and found  this project and others such as his  Mysore campaign, Ft. William college project, etc were  extravagant.  Though his tenure in India was a scandalous one, Wellesley remained upright and untouched. 

 As for the big summer resort project and its design and plan, no details are available  as time and vagaries of weather have taken away  and buried them. The credit goes to warren Hastings who took upon himself the task of completing the  small but simple  house, built by Wellesley with fine  relevant decorations  such as those in front of the South entrance - the impressive  lotus basin and the marble fountain specially from Agra. Besides, he converted the house into a cosy and  comfortable residence for the Governor, his family members and some guests as well. Knowing that additions would spoil the beauty of this building no  other major  structural changes had been made  except for  some minor modifications and additions of certain features.  Subsequent Governor Generals right from Hastings and others respected Wellesley's love for Barrackpore  and the park and made minor additions to enhance it  beauty and style. The balcony on the Western side; iron staircase on the South front, a wooden porch and electrification of the building were carried out  respectively by Lord Auckland (1835 – 1842), Lord Lytton (1876-1880),  Lord Ripon (1886-1884)  and  Lord Minto (1905-1910).

The central hall was once a venue for week-end balls and entertainments.. The main central drawing room served  for prayer and services  before Barrackpore Church was built in 1847. Here,  famous preacher Bishop Heber  (who unfortunately died in Tiruchirapalli town, TN while on a visit) preached in 1823. Famous evangelists  Carey, Marshman and Ward frequently visited Barrackpore House as guests of the Governor General.
 
So many historians are of the view  that  there was nothing remarkable about the Government House which is a plain one-story structure with  large  rooms and very ordinary furniture. Had Wellesley completed this building  long before his final departure for England, the Barrackpore House in the park would have been one of the finest and stylish  colonial buildings in  Bengal. An interesting fact is Lady Canning 's passion for the park was so overwhelming that she loved this place very much. She designed an informal sitting place under the Grand Banyan Tree, which is estimated to be 350 years old, older than the Indian Botanical Garden. Besides, She even designed a balustraded terrace in the Barrackpore Park around the Lotus Fountain called  the Lady Canning Terrace.  She, after her demise, was buried in a part of the park. There is a museum in the Govt. House and here on display are British era arms and ammunition, old paintings of Barraackpore house, etc.
https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/kolkata/house-proud/articleshow/68119849.cms

https://puronokolkata.com/2017/02/18/barrackpore-house-its-english-park-1803-1912/






St. Stephen's Church on Diamond Harbour Road, Kolkata - a historical Colonial church

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St Stephen's Church - Calcutta - 1849commons.wikimedia.org.
 The Residencies of Calcutta, Madras and Bombay are home to a large number of colonial churches  mostly built in European style, sometimes mixed with local architectural elements. Despite the long passage of time, these places of worship -legacies of colonial rule in India, have neither lost their charm nor their historical importance and heritage value.
Diamond Harbour Rd, Kidderpore. double-dolphin.blogspot.com
St Stephen's Church - Calcuttadouble-dolphin.blogspot.com
  St. Stephen's Church on  Diamond Harbour Road, Kolkata open to public in 1846, is one of the earliest churches built in Bengal. What is so unique about this church is its appearance, in particular, its odd looking steeple that resembles the body of a rocket, complete with nose cone. On  both sides of the entrance, you will be struck by the way the walls are sloping resembling  like tail fins. An interesting fact is, this church Anglican in origin,  still continues to maintain  the old Anglican traditions in its services,  etc., according to the church authorities. Right from its very origin all services,  have been in English and no native language is used for this purpose.

Typical Gothic in architecture, the steeple was not built  to look like  a rocket.  Rather, the architect  designed it  to look like a ship’s lantern from the old days. Perhaps, we may be wondering why the  Church that has a steeple  resembling a ship’s lantern is constructed  on Diamond Harbour Road.  The answer is simple  and is linked to its proximity to the docks in  Kidderpore docks and the houses of sailors and  seafaring people. There is a likelihood that this would have been the first Church  to be  seen by a  new comer to this place  traveling East towards the city after  getting off the ship.  St. Stephen’s Church  was close  to the St. Thomas Boys’ School in  Kidderpore Bazaar and the school is functioning well today.

It was in
1846 the Church was consecrated and  on the 6th of January, 1844 its foundation  stone was laid by the Governor General, Edward Law, 1st Earl of Ellenborough, along with the Venerable Archdeacon  and  Rev Thomas Dealtry.  This church  is believed to have been frequently visited by the Governor General and his family members  whose residence was at Belvedere. That place is converted into a library.  Having been established as a Chaplaincy in 1848, it became a parish church in 1870.

The church has impressive interior with fine architectural style. There are are two closets, on both sides of the altar  and they are meant for nuns, who may have received their communion through windows in the closets. There  are many plaques on the walls, the older among them commemorating European dead, whereas the  newer ones are Indian. Among the older plaques is one for Edgar Belhouse, 3rd officer of the ship Khyber, who was drowned in the Hooghly on 11th May, 1890.  Because of its proximity to the wharves on the Hooghly, many of the plaques inside the church commemorate former parishioners who died at sea.  Behind the altar stands  a very large and  strikingly beautiful stained glass window as well as a  fine pulpit. The Church also has  an  original organ  which has fallen into disrepair; it is not functional.  After India's freedom, because of the departure of a large chunk of Christians in this location, the community became a small one and the church, unfortunately, fell into disuse. Owing to sheer negligence and poor upkeep, this old legacy of the colonial period had begun to rot leading to the collapse of beams causing cracks in the ceiling  and promoting leaks. The windows took the beatings  as well.  The members of the church in 2013 began to take steps to repair and restore the church back to old glory, Obliviously, they depended on donations from the public. The credit goes to the students of the adjacent St. Thomas School. many of whom were congregants of the church. Through their sustained efforts and with cooperation from the heritage lovers of West Bengal and others later, the church was saved from near oblivion, and now it is in good shape. However, the original marble flooring was not saved and relaid with a new one. 
http://double-dolphin.blogspot.com/2014/11/st-stephens-church-diamond-harbour-road.html










The Kardyl building (Bharat Insurance Bldg.) Chennai - a fascinating heitage site

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Kardyl /Bharat Insurance Building, Chennai, flicker.com




The heritage enthusiasts of Chennai saved several heritage buildings either from total demolition or from rotting. Bharat Insurance building, earlier known as the Kardyl building, is a beautiful heritage structure located on the prime arterial Anna Salai (previously Mount Road), built roughly 122 years ago and was saved from  near demolition by its present owner L.I.C of India, a mega insurance company run by the Central Government.
 Kardyl /Bharat Insurance Building, Chennai, flicker.com



The original name of the Bharat Insurance Building  is  the Kardyl building, a  huge  structure that was  built in 1897 in  Indo-Saracenic style. Constructed for W E Smith and Company, it was bought by Bharat Insurance in 1934. This insurance company became part of the  Central government government controlled   Life Insurance Corporation of India (LIC). This historic building would have turned into  mound of dirt, but for the timely intervention of heritage lovers and others who are on  a war path to save countless monuments in Chennai. The Madras High Court in 2010  restrained Life Insurance Corporation of India's move to pull down the structure without complying with regulation 22 of the Development Control Rules for the Chennai Metropolitan Area, 2004.The Bench asked the State government to issue rules to prevent persons from undertaking any repair, even in the name of renovation of heritage buildings without seeking the necessary approval of the HCC - the Heritage Conservation Committee.The court also asked the  HCC to save heritage site as far as possible. It was a land mark judgement that would save innumerable heritage sites in this state as well as in other states in the future.

the Kardyl /Bharat Insurance Bldg., Chennai, .flickr.com
Kardyl /Bharat Insurance Building, Chennai,hwilliam-madras.blogspot.com/

This Kardyl building owes its origin to W.E. Smith, a pharmacist, who landed in Chennai in 1868. He went to Ooty in the Nilgiri hills and opened a pharmacy shop. Encouraged by the success of the Ooty shop and other branches, he was keen to set up a shop in Madras (Chennai). Smith engaged in "wholesale and manufacturing of drugs and aerated water, sale of  surgical instruments, besides serving  as opticians.  With prompt and dedicated services, his business expanded beyond his expectation and, now, he needed more space for keeping stocks, etc. W.E. Smith was South India's leading pharmacist. 

Kardyl Building was inaugurated in 1897 and it took three years to complete it. This building became the HO and Smith was doing business under the name of "W.E. Smith & Co Ltd." Kardyl Building, triangular in plan,  is a unique structure where one see a blend of   Indo-Saracenic,  Mughal with the Ottoman, Hindu and  European Classical styles. The architect  J.H. Stephens of the P.W.D. Madras had his extraordinary imagination and vision run riot; an infusion of many and varied designs in one building is odd and it was tagged as palatial. The company's  show room itself measured 60-foot by 40.

No visitor to the heart of Mount Road, Chennai can miss the striking features of  Kardyl  building such as  domes, spires, 100-foot minarets, nice impressive arches and long verandahs (for better air circulation inside)  all blended into a unique style of  fantasy.  The building had rooms for  practicing doctors and dentists on its first floor facing Mount Road, and for its European assistants facing General Patter's Road. Also once functioned in this building were a cafe and a beer bar. Smith's aerated water factory was in the back of the compound.  
To protect the structure from further damage and  worn-off, particularly, in the monsoon season, the building was covered with a blue sheet in 2012. The heritage lovers and experts were quite concerned about the impact of monsoon on this old  weak structure. First of all the sooner this structure is repaired and saved from further  deterioration, the earlier the restoration process will be put in place.
http://william-madras.blogspot.com/2011/05/bharat-buildings-story-goes-back-to.html
https://www.thehindu.com/news/national/tamil-nadu/Restraint-on-demolition-of-heritage-building/article16298583.ece
https://ballsoffury2811.wordpress.com/tag/bharat-insurance-building/

The Senate House (University of Madras), Chennai - a wonderful colonial building needs immedate repair work and restoration

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the Senate House,Chennai..agefotostock.com
The Senate House, the main   administrative  hub of the University of Madras in Chennai, on Wallajah Road, along Marina Beach is a fine piece of colonial architecture  designed by famous engineer  Robert Chisholm.  He took five years to complete it in 1879.  A classic example of Indo-Saracenic architecture in India, it is an impressive land mark in Chennai facing the Bay of Bengal.This impressive vintage landmark has  administrative departments of the University and offices of the Vice-Chancellor as well as the Registrar of the University of Madras. The resentful fact isthis amazing building is in a poor state.
Side view, the Senate House,Chennai. en.wikipedia.org
Senate House, Madras - Tucks Oileete (1911) en.wikipedia.org
Robert Chisholm was a 19th-century British architect  of great repute and is considered  as  one of the pioneers of Indo-Saracenic architecture in India rightly mixing Indian elements with European style. A new name came into being called  Renaissance and Gothic styles of architecture.  Chisholm's other wonderful creation is 
the Chepauk Palace  built in 1871 for the Nawab of Arcot  who wanted to move his residence to Madras (Chennai) close to  Fort St. George, then the main center of the English company's trading post. In the place where the Senate House stands, it is mentioned, a  saluting battery was present at that site.
The central tower of the Senate House, Chennai. en.wikipedia.org
Senate House, Chennai, Marina beach .andrewwhitehead.net/blog
Senate House, Chennai, Marina beach thenewsminute.com

Until the the Senate House came up, the university convocations were held in the  Banqueting Hall (now known as Rajaji Hall).. It was during 14 July – 21 December 1937 the legislature of the Madras Presidency met at the senate house to carry on the deliberations. The most note-worthy feature of this structure is the subtle inclusion of many elements of the Byzantine style that adds zest this already wonderful building.  Mainly bricks and  lime mortar  went into construction.  A striking part of the building is the  great hall of the Senate House that is supported by six mammoth pillars. There are domes on each corner of Senate House which are intricately designed and colored.  The Senate hall  was specifically designed with  immense height and proportions and is marked as one  the finest of its kind in India. Senate House has two entrances, which are located on the northern and southern sides of the building.  It spreads over 1.5 acres on the Chaupak campus and the other heritage structure on this campus need immediate attention  to get them  back on their past glory.
Senate_House_(University_of_Madras), Chennai. thenewsminute.com

the Senate House,Chennaitimesofindia.indiatimes.com
Presently, the Senate House presents sad picture  due to lack of adequate funds and  sheer  negligence on the part of officials concerned. It is said the University of Madras does not have funds to take care of the restoration work and the state government recently granted Rs. 5 crores and much of the fund was spent on the senate clock tower alone. The façade may be in good shape, but inside it is in a dilapidated state where one could see rodents, snakes and  other creature; the paint has peeled off and, when it rains heavily,  the water seeps in through the grilled windows. In 2004 and 2007, renovation was done but the work proved to be a failure  owing to poor management of funds R.6 crore alloted for the work.  The government and heritage lovers should act soon on this wonderful vintage structure before it becomes too late for its
redemption. 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Senate_House_(University_of_Madras)
https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/chennai/behind-its-impressive-faade-senate-house-hides-an-ugly-truth/articleshow/68103217.cms











Crumbling Victoria Hostel, Chennai - 119 year old heritage structure awaiting major repair and restoration

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an old image of Victoria Hostel, Chennai  pinrest com

In Chennai alone there are hundreds of old colonial and other monuments,  legacies of the British Raj and early colonial rule under the EIC. Historians and heritage lovers  deplore that these structures and others remain neglected  by the city authorities for years together with no basic periodic repairs. It shows lack of awareness of old heritage buildings and their importance  among the public as well as officials  who have scant interest in the  historical value of such heritage sites that connect us with the by-gone era.  There is no realization such old structures ought to be repaired periodically and preserved for the posterity. Further, presentation of our wonderful monuments in style with fine ambiance  will attract lots of foreign tourists who evince keen interest in such buildings steeped in history. The Bharat Insurance building on Anna Salai, Chennai,  a colonial building, is slowly crumbling and, I understand, steps are not yet taken to carry out basic repairs to preserve the building. In 2011, a part of the roof  of General Post office building on Rajaji Salai, Chennai caved in during the monsoon season. For all old poorly maintained colonial structures in Chennai or elsewhere, the monsoon season  every year is a difficult one to pass through. The heavy rains some times cause severe damages and make them weak as years go by.  'It should be borne in our mind that in these  impressive monuments of past era, there lurks in every nook and corner  our history'.


Victoria Hostel, Chennaitimescontent.com
Victoria Students’ Hostel, Triplicane, Chennai, a Grade I heritage structure in the Justice E Padmanabhan Committee report, has been in a run-down state for decades resulting in  leaking pipelines, damaged rooms, broken balconies and toilets,  Recently the government announced that this hostel building would be repaired and restored soon. This 119 year old hostel  in a  narrow lane  is attached to the Madras Presidency College on the beach road, Chennai  and is struggling hard to accommodate about 300 students as the hostel lacks basic amenities and the structure is in a dilapidated state.  An insetting fact about this dying monument is it is  made of wire-cut  red bricks, embodies the signature architectural features of structures designed by the legendary architect  Robert Fellowes Chisholm who also  built the Senate House  on the Beach road, Chennai and Amir Mahal, the official residence of the Nawab of Arcot, an alley of the East India company.

Victoria Hostel, Chennai/timesofindia.indiatimes.com

Established on 30th January, 1900 in the government land by  students and admirers in memory of Rao Bahadur P. Ranganatha Mudaliar, M.A., Professor of Mathematics and Natural Philosophy, Presidency College, Madras, Sir Arthur Havelock, Governor of Madras, presided over the opening ceremony of the Victoria students’ Hostel in the presence of many distinguished ladies and gentlemen.  It was built by T. Namberumal Chetty, civil contractor (?). This Hostel has been under  the Government of Tamil Nadu  since 14.06.1987. In accordance with G.O. Ms. No. 608. Education Dept. dated 16.04.1987, the Principal of the Presidency College, Chennai-05 was instructed by the Commissioner of Collegiate Education, Chennai - 6, to run this Hostel.
Victoria Hostel, Chennai .business-standard.com/
There  are about 120 rooms out of which 20 are in very bad condition. Students have to bathe in the open and shell out more than  Rs 1500 a month. Due to lack of space two or three  students have to  share  single rooms. The college authorities say they are dependent on funds from the government for regular repairs, etc. and they can not carry out immediate repairs. The Cm of Tamil Nadu government has given a nod and it means something will be in the offing!!


After several appeals, the officials of the Directorate of Technical Education (DOTE) on a visit to the hostel said steps were underway to get the hostel repaired.  Presumably, it will take a year to begin the restoration process, etc  because of red tape. Conservationists say Victoria Hostel is dying every day because of continuous pipeline leaks, etc and the roof appears to be too weak  to get past the next monsoon season. The students in the hostel need to be shifted to elsewhere for safety purpose.
https://www.thehindu.com/news/cities/chennai/crumbling-hostel-awaits-monsoon-with-dread/article3988795.ece







Incomplete Roya Gopura (tower), Madurai Meenakshi temple

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Unfinished Roya Gopuram, Madurai, pinrest. comAdd caption
Above image: The photograph of the unfinished Raya Gopura (Tower) of the Meenakshi temple, Madurai in Tamil  Nadu, is part of a collection entitled 'Photographic Views in Madurai ' (Madras, 1858) and was taken by Linnaeus Tripe in 1858. This rare photo shows the incomplete Main tower (Roya Gopuram) on the east side of the Meenakshi temple  with Pudu (new) Mandabam and East Gopuram visible in the backdrop. East of the temple........................

 Tirumala Nayak (A.D. 1623 to 1659) of Madurai Nayak Dynasty had a plan to build a huge tower. Though the construction of the  new tower  had begun in earnest, for reasons beyond comprehension,  the work was not completed and left out in the very early phases. The amazing features are the four tall monolith towers that rise to a height of 50 feet from the ground level. That how the four  tall pillars were   erected in alignment  at the right upper level is a riddle. They are  the only pillars  half-constructed on the Meenakshi Temple premises. It is on the west side of the main shrine.
Madurai Meenashi temple,inomplete  Roya Gopuram .hellotravel.com

The unfinished tower is  at the western corner of Yanakal street and the entrance is facing Yezhukadal street. It measures 59 meter in length  and 38 meters  in width. The remnants we are seeing here were  built in AD 1654 by Thirumala Nayak  with view to enhancing the beauty of Meenakshi temple, one of the finest temples dedicated to Shiva in India.  The gopura is a wonderful representation of the architectural finesse of the Nayak period. His brother Nayak king Muthiyaly along with Thirumala Nayak gave due importance to temple building in the  Nayak kingdom and the Nayak rulers of Madurai, Thanjavur and other places made vast contribution to Hindu temple architecture in Tamil Nadu. They built or made additions to the Vishnu as well as Shiva temples.   Had the Nayak ruler completed this  Roya gopura, perhaps it would have been the tallest one in Tamil Nadu.
The gargantuan base of the unfinished Raya gopuram., Madurai thehindu.com
 
The Meenakshi temple in Madurai is dedicated to Shiva and his consort Meenakshi (meaning fish-eyed), a form of Parvati. The temple rectangular in plan  covers 6 hectares and consists of 11 huge towers and 4 entrance gopurams adorned with divinities and others. Inside this enclosure there are huge mandapas (halls) supported by massive ornate stone pillars, tanks, shrines and
 the two shrines of God Shiva and Goddess Meenakshi.
Madurai Meenaskshi temple, entrance. Roya Gopuram. .bl.uk/onlinegallery/
Above image: Photo of the unfinished Raya Gopuram in the Meenakshi Sundareshvara Temple of Madurai, taken by Nicholas and Company in the 1870s.  The temple  towers are extremely elaborate and completely covered with figures of divinities, celestial beings, monster masks and animals, nice paintings, etc. The entrance to the Roaya Gopura is very tall and the doorjambs are elaborately carved with scroll work.................................

Any  visitor to the unfinished Roya Gopura will be wonder-struck by  the tall, huge base  with its ornate thoranas, elegant carvings, sculptures of dancing damsels, lion-based pilasters and niches. There is a well-carved stone sculpture of Tirumalai Nayak, the ruler of Madurai who  was instrumental for the temple's expansion and regular maintenance. When Thirumalai Naicker started the construction,  the 217-foot tall tower of  Thiruvannamalai temple, Thiruvannamalai,TN was the tallest one and the ruler wanted to build the tower in Madurai taller than this one. At present,  the 236-foot tall Srirangam Ranganathar temple is the tallest one in Tamil Nadu, followed by Thanjavur Brigadishwar temple (big temple) and Sri Villiputhur Andal temple in Virudhunagar district.
https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/madurai/Out-of-sight-Raya-Gopuram-to-fade-into-oblivion/articleshow/21890016.cms





The chaotic state of Roya Gopura, Madurai - access roads need to be conserved

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Chaotic Yezhu Kadal st. leading to Roya Gopura (tower). Madurai thehindu.com
The great ruler of Madurai Nayak Dynasty Tirumala Nayak (A.D. 1623 to 1659),  wanted to have a huge tower built on the premises of the famous Meenaskshi-Sundareswarar temple. Unfortunately, he could not complete the project after the construction of the tall entrance and four giant monolith pillar, the work had stopped in 
the early stage. Later rulers did not touch the work left behind 
by Thiumalai Nayak.  Though the  incomplete work was in the earliest stage, it is a good example of nayak rulers' architectural 
and sculptural splendor, a symphony in stone. This place  is known 
as the  arena for two of the 64 divine sports (in Tamil Thiruvilayadalkal) of Lord Siva.
Street view from Roya Gopura, Madurai Commons wikipedia.prg
The entrance to the incomplete Roya Gopura in on  Ezhu Kadal Street  which has become a mini bazaars with hawkers selling their wares at the entrance, blocking the view of the temple.  Roya Gopura has been rendered into a  neglected piece of history due to sheer negligence and scant regard for our past history by the temple authority.  Mythologically speaking it is the place where the consort of Lord Shiva Goddess Meenakshi appeared from the sacred fire as ''Thadathagai'' during the yagam performed by Malathuvaja Pandian and Kanchanamala.

Unfinished Roya Gopuram (1858), Madurai, pinrest. comAdd caption
At loss is the divinity of this place of worship because of the presence of rows of shops on either side starting right from the entrance to the incomplete Roya Gopura on  the Ezhu Kadal street.
This street come alive during the major temple festival event. It is on this street  Goddess Meenakshi fights kings on her ‘dik vijayam’and finally meets Lord Shiva during the Chitirai festival, held in the month of April to May. The Tirukalyanam (wedding)  of Goddess Meenakshi with Lord Sundareswarar takes place following day. On this  famous festive occasion this street that is decorated with lights  is crowded with devotees  who enjoy  watching  the procession of deities.

Roya Gopura, Madurai. encroachments. Commons wikipedia.prg.
It is said that  Ezhu Kadal Street owes  its name to a small temple tank that is said to have contained water from seven oceans. As the temple tank began to dry over a period of time, the State government and the temple administration HR &CE, not paying any  attention to neither the divinity nor the historical importance of this place,  came up with a big  shopping complex on it. Thus in this complex lost the legacy of Nayak rulers and their religious belief.
Yet another grievance expressed by shop owners and others is the conservationists whose priority is to clean the big streets around the temple, should  also  focus on  the narrow one-way street - Yezhu Kadal street and others around the Roya Gopura that need elaborate cleaning. They are full of shops and the traffic is chaotic with no proper regulation.
The  Ezhu Kadal street is an important part of not only history associated with the Roya gopura, a great Nayak monument. The shops near t and along the entrance literally spoil the heritage value of such wonderful creation, blocking their view.  Normally, the Government should restrict human activities as mush as possible  close to the heritage structures/  monuments. In Tamil Nadu and elsewhere, the temples and monuments are encroached upon by shop keepers and hawkers and at stake is the historical values of the monuments. The government should keep the surrounding areas clean and free from shops, etc. The monuments that carry the frozen history   need to be accessed  without any hindrance by the tourists and others. Local bodies should get the opinion of the people who are part of the society and, being stake holders, they deserve to be heard.
https://www.thehindu.com/news/cities/Madurai/finding-ezhu-kadal-streets-lost-history/article26587357.ece

 https://frontline.thehindu.com/static/html/fl2608/stories/20090424260812300.htm
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