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Mala and Paradesi Synagogues - lost Jewish prayer houses, Kochi

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Mala Synagogue,near Mattencherry, Kerala. jobmathew.wordpress.com
Mala Synagogue
Mala Synagogue,near mattencherry, Kerala. www.spiritofkerala.comjobmathew.wordpress.com

Since 1955, no Jews have lived in the town of Mala and that is when then Synagogue closed. www.slideshare.netwww.slideshare.net
 Natural disasters, coupled with persecution  by the Moors in the 
12 th century and  later by the Portuguese colonists in the 16th century made the Jewish community  move over to the neighborhood of Koch from Kadungallor, Palur and other places. Hence,  Kochi and surrounding areas  are dotted with many Jewish prayer houses. Unfortunately they have lost their utility, sheen and elegance because  Jews living in these early settlements have made Aliyah and have become permanent residents in Israel. Some local folk singers  sing Jewish folk songs in Malayalam, though the community is almost lost for ever.

Mala Synagogue:

Built in 1000 AD, Mala Synagogue is about  51 kilometers from Mattancherry, Kerala Sate and it is difficult to  locate the old structure, though it was renovated in 1909. As other synagogues of this  place, this one is also nonfunctional.  The Torah, it is believed, was taken to Israel. However, the  synagogue' s Tebah, Heckal and many furnishings were either damaged or removed.  In 1954 the trustees of Mala Synagogue made a formal agreement with the local Panchayat regarding control of this historical place on condition  that it should not be used as a slaughter house, etc. Under the care of the local government the  synagogue was  used for conducting  cultural, educational and communal functions. Now plans are afoot to improve the facade and other parts of the building.

Since 1955, no Jews have lived in the town of Mala and that is when the Synagogue closed the services for good. In the same year 300 Jews left for Israel to settle down there. A Jewish prayer house is operational only when there are 10 plus more members are enrolled with it.

Paradesi Synagogue, Mattancherry:


Mattancherry Synagogue
Paradesi  Synagogue,  Mattencherry, near Kochi, India.cochinsyn.com
Considered as the oldest synagogue in the British Commonwealth, it was built by Samuel Castiel, David Belila, and Joseph Levi in 1568, but in 1662 it was destroyed by the Portuguese and later re-built by the DutchThe Belgian glass chandeliers and hand painted ceramic tiles from Canton and the colonial structure enhance the beauty of this place located in a legendary area - once known for spice trades.

In the 15th century  when the  Jews moved over to this place from  Kadunkallor, It is believed,  many Jewish people also arrived from Portugal and Spain during this time  owing to religious persecution there.
Paradesi Synagogue, Mattencherry, near Kochi, India. 
asianjewishlife.org

This structure was rebuilt in 1930 and thousands of people from India and world over  used to visit this one steeped in  Jewish history and  culture of the local community. An interesting feature about this prayer house is the famous cloak tower that has three  existing  dials with Malayalam, Roman and Hebrew  numbers, each facing different direction.  Dial with Malayalam characters facing the local Maharajah's palace and the Hebrew dial facing the Jewish settlement, the dial with Roman character is facing west.The fourth dial with numbers (facing the water front) is missing.

Paradesi Synagogue, Jewish Quarter or Jew Town, Mattancherry, Kochi, Cochin, Kerala.www.alamy.com
The unique feature about the Jewish settlers here is they followed the Indian tradition of removing their  foot wear before entering the prayer house, a custom never followed in any Jewish prayer houses world over. Yet another  note-worthy feature is second  Tebah(The Hebrew name Tebah comes from the verb tabah,  meaning  slaughter, butcher, slay, kill). World over synagogues have just single  Tebah.
Paradesi Synagogue, Mattencherry, near Kochi.jewsofcochin.blogspot.com
 The synagogue  is not fully functional  and  served as a gathering hall for community events. Visitors have to contact one Elias “Babu” Josephai, the caretaker of the near-by Kadavumbagam Synagogue to visit this synagogue. The government also has  a plan to  renovate and restore the abandoned Jewish cemetery. 


Lost heritage of ancient harbor Muziris, Kerala

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Muziris, Kerala mrunal.org  www.pickpackgo.in
Kochi-Muziris Biennale 2012.
www.e-flux.com

Dating back to almost 1st century BC,  Muziris was one of the oldest harbors and an urban center in  the Indian subcontinent on the Malabar coast of Tamilagam, and the places around it were steeped in rich history. It is mentioned in age old Tamil Sangam       literature (Akkananuru and Purananuru),  Muracippattanam in the Sanskrit epic Ramayana, and as Muyirikkottu in a copper plate of an 11th-century Chera ruler. Early descriptions are also found in some European classical works. It was once the site of  the first Jewish, Christian and Islamic settlements in India  during 961 BC, 52 AD, and 629 AD respectively, living harmoniously side by side under the patronage of the local Hindu rulers.
Muziris.Kerala. www.pickpackgo.in 
Kochi-Muziris Biennale 2012
Present Kodungallur
(30 KM north of Cochin), was referred to Muziris by the Greek and  Romans and Shingly  by the Jews and  Cranganore  by the Portuguese. Earlier it was known as   Mahodayapuram or  Muyirikkodu and Muziris. "Muziris" is said to be from the native Tamil name for the port, "muciri".  Records show that Muziris is believed to have been first occupied around 1,000 BC and continued to be  a hub of trade activities, etc till the 13th century AD.

Literally one may call  Kodungallur  the cradle of several religions and was also called  Jerusalem of the East. It was here the great Apostle St. Thomas landed, bringing Christianity for the first time to India and established the famous seven and half churches across this region. He also converted some of the Jewish merchants living there to Christianity and later began the conversion of the natives. Yet another surprising fact is it was the  site of Cheraman Mosque, the first one  in India  built on orders from a Hindu ruler who adopted Islam in Arabia. This place is well known for a Hindu temple dedicated to goddess Bhagavathy.

In 1341, the ancient harbor site at the mouth of the Pariyar river, overlooking the Arabian sea  in the Periyar River Basin,  faced deluge due to major  flooding caused by the Periyar river  and consequently it led  to total obliteration of the region. The rich harbor of Muziris became submerged and was overlain by the sediments. In 2007 and 2008, the excavations by the Kerala Council for Historical Research (KCHR)  brought to light the existence of valid  archaeological and historical evidences, confirming the glory and legacy of this once famous harbor. It was unusually heavy rain in Pattannam that exposed the vestiges of this legendary port, the heart and soul of the Historic Spice Route. The rain was a boon to the Historians and Archeologists who had been, for some time, hunting for the evidences on the lost port.  It was once the busiest and greatest spice trade centers and people of many nations used to throng this place not only to buy spices, but also to trade in precious stones  pearls, diamonds, sapphires,
corals, ivory, Chinese silk, Gangetic spikenard and tortoise shells. The Romans paid money in gold coins. Others trading items  included  multicolored textiles, ores - sulfide of antimony, copper, tin, lead etc., Possible trade link with the Cauvery delta region and east coast of India via the Palghat Gap is suggested by the coins discovered in this area.  Though the Roman trade declined from  the 5th century AD, however, the Persians, the Chinese and the Arabs had been main mercantile traders till the destruction of Muziris due a cataclysmic event - devastating floods of Periyar in the 14th century. Literally the  area was off the map and the Geomorphology of this region had changed in the aftermath.

The Kerala Government has done a wonderful job as part of "The Muziris Heritage Project"  to bring back alive the lost glory and legacy that nurtured different cultures 3000 years ago, a whooping time in world history.  The project encompass a big area, covering  Kodungallor taluk (Thrissur Dist.) and places like Paravur taluk, Chendamangalam, Chittattukara, Vadakekkara, Pallipuram (Ernakulam Dist.), etc.,  that have ancient monuments. The conservation was done with a view to preserving this rare site for our posterity and to showcase the affluence  and ethos of ancient India with particular reference to Malabar region.

Ref:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muziris

Shree Varaha temple Azheel, part of Muziris hritage, Kerala.

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Shree Varaha temple Azheel, Kerala. www.muzirisheritage.org
This Hindu temple, near Pallipalayam in Kerala, is in the area where the Gowda Saraswat Brahmin community  of Kerala has been living for centuries. It is near the great Muziris heritage site. This place is 25 kms from Kochi city and 4 kms from south paravoor. There are 31 temples established by them  and this temple has all the seven deities  venerated by them. These people  migrated to this part of Kerala from Goa and other areas  centuries ago during the religious persecution (16th century) under the Portuguese rule.  Seven of the  GSB families  settled in Azheekal in the Vypeen island near Cochin. One  Krishna Prabhu, a rich trader had  two  idols  of Sree Varaha and Sree Vithoba with him which were temporarily installed  and worshiped at this place of worship. 

Sree Varahamoorthy in Chathurbahu form with shnkha chakra abhaya varada mudra is the presiding deity of this temple. Sree Venkatachalapathy with Lakshmi Devi and Bhoomi Devi on left/right side is also installed in the Srikovil (Garbagraha - Sanctum). Sree Varaha Murthy soon became the Gramadevata of the Azeekal community.  Sri Krishna Prabhu  donated the lands upon which this temple was built and the idol was consecrated in 1565 AD by Sri Yadavendra Tirtha Swamiji, the first pontiff of Kashi Mutt. The idols in the temple at Azheekal,unfortunately, were stolen in 1723 AD and  and were replaced by new idols. After a long period of time, the stolen idols were recovered. The Mahajanams and the families, living in that area  donated extensive lands to the  temple for upkeep, maintenance, daily (nithya)puja rituals, etc. The temple came to be known as Sree Varaha temple. The temples established by them serve as centers of religious and cultural life of that community, thus preserving their age old tradition, language, worship and aesthetic values. It is under the control of Azheekal Varaha Devaswom Board. The Dwajsthambam was installed in 1900. This temple is famous for Rathoutchava - pulling of big Chariot with  the deity on the ratha along the rathaveethi (street). The chariot was introduced in 1909 and the rathaveethi was built specifically for ratha procession.  This temple takes the credit of being  the only Sampoorna Kshetra  - 'complete temple' of the Nagara type in South India.  Hanuman, Ganapati, Mahalaxmi, Garuda, Shiva, Durga, Yakshi and Nagadevatha are the upadevathas or sub deities in this famous shrine.
 Ref:
 http://www.muzirisheritage.org/azheekal-sree-varaha-temple.php
 

Historical Portuguese monument - Luz Church, chennai

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Luz Church built in 1516, Chennai, Tamil Nadu, India. www.lakshmisharath.com
Luz Church, Chennai, Tamil Nadu, India..creative.sulekha.com
Luz Church or Church of Our Lady of Light is a Roman Catholic shrine in the city of Chennai, Tamil Nadu, India. This Portuguese church built in 1516 derives its name from the Portuguese words Nossa Senhora da Luz. Being one of the oldest churches in India, it has close association with the safe landing of the Portuguese  missionaries from Portugal in the 16th century  who wanted to spread Christianity in India. 
Luz Church (1516), Chennai, Tamil Nadu, India. chennaiplus.net
The city of Chennai (previously known as Madras), has many historical buildings and churches built by the English who first constructed  the trading post here called St. George Fort. Among the European monuments here, the Luz church in Mylapore is a Portuguese legacy, often referred to as Kottukovil (temple amidst forest). Because, the Portuguese Friars upon their safe landing guided by a divine light first built an oratory in the present place which was once a wooded area with the sea in the backdrop. Now the church is surrounded by lots of trees tucked away from the madding crowd and hustle and bustle of city life.

Upon the discovery of  the first sea route to India in 1498 by  Vasco de Gama,  eight Jesuit priests  landed at Calicut, Kerala  from Lisbon with the fleet of Pedro Alvares Cabral on the 9 March 1500 A.D. Unfortunately a few of them were killed, rest moved down to Cochin. After a  few years later, they sailed down South on missionary work.  It is said, that the ship that carried Friars was caught in the rough, stormy sea in the Bay of Bengal off the present city Chennai, and they  started praying to Mother Mary for their safety. Their, as a miracle, prayer was answered. It is said that they saw a divine moving light that  miraculously guided them safely  to  the shore. The Friars as a taken of their gratitude to Mary for their  safe arrival on the land, built this Church of Our Lady of Light.  Yet another legend has it that it was not the Portuguese priests, but it was a group of sailors from Portugal who were rescued by the divine light. 

The church suffered damages during the raid from Golconda forces (1662 - 1673). Between 1780 and 1782, the British East India Company Forces  occupied the Luz Parish Residence  when Haider Ali invaded this place. The famous Santhome Basilica, where Apostle  St.Thomas is believed to have been buried is close to this shrine. The famous Stella Maris College, Chennai is being run by the  Luz church authorities. 

This church  has  beautiful  arches in Gothic style and  Baroque decorations, suggestive of characteristic classical European style of architecture. The foundation stone suggests that this church is one of the oldest monuments in the Indian subcontinent. It is an important land mark in this urban part of the city. It is commonly known as Luz Church by the locals. For the monument freaks, it is a nice place to walk around.
Ref:  
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Church_of_Our_Lady_of_Light,_Chennai











Hindu temples near the famous Muziris heritage site

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The temples mentioned below  fall within the enclave of  the 
Muziris Heritage Site, near Kochi, Kerala  where Christianity first arrived in India and  the very first mosque came up and made a prayer call. So was the Jewish prayer house - Synagogue and the growth of a small Jewish community. Christianity began right  here and spread to other parts of India.  It was once a cauldron of different cultures, speaking  different languages living in peace and harmony in the shadow of different cultures and belief along with the majority - Hindus under the patronage of the Hindu ruler. Muziris was the busiest and largest Spice trade center and a harbor in ancient time.

Kurumbakavu Bhagavathi Temple:


Kurumbakavu Bhagavathi Temple. en.wikipedia
It is located about 1.5 km southeast of the Kodungallur bus stand is a famous temple dedicated to Bhadrakali (Goddess Kali). About 1800 years ago  Cheran Chenkuttuvan of the Chera dynasty had the idol of Kannagi installed. She was the wife of a rich trader from Poompuhar, Tamil Nadu one Kovalan who was mistaken for a petty thief and faced death in the Pandya kingdom, Madurai. Enraged  Kannaki took revenge on the ruler for having killed an innocent man and later she wandered around the present place where she attained the status of goddess. This temple is  popularly known as Kodungallur Bhagavathy Temple.  Devotees throng the shrine  on Tuesdays, Fridays and Saturdays and, as part of Sabarimalai Yatra - pilgrimage, thousands of pilgrims visit this temple  during November - January every year.
 Famous festivals are Bharani festival (Malayalam month of Meenam: March -April) and Navaratri (October-November).

Kizhthali Siva Temple:

Kizhthali Siva Temple. .muzirisheritage.org
 Kizhthali Siva Temple is believed to have existed during the reign of  Perumal  (B.C 113-AD 343).  It is situated on the Paravur-Kodungallur Road. The rulers of Chera dynasty were Shaivites, ardent devotees of Lord Shiva, and they had the Nambuthiri Brahmins  assist them in their administration.These advisers, as it was a custom in those days, used to gather in the Shiva temple called Thali.  This place was dotted with many Shiva temples such as  such as Melthali, Nediyathali and Chingapuram Thali. Presently under the care of the Archeology department, the religious functions are being taken care of by a private trust.

During the Portuguese rule and later under the Dutch, this temple was destroyed. Again during the raid by Tipu Sultan of Mysore,  this temple was again damaged, but for Srikovil - Garbagraha.  Its original glory - the temple boasted of a Koothu Parambu, a Kalari Parambu and a Kalapura Parambu. 

Thiruvanchikulam Mahadeva Temple:

Thiruvanchikulam Mahadeva Temple. kshetralayam.blogspot.com
 Thiruvanchikulam Mahadeva Temple at Kottappuram is a Hindu temple of great antiquity - history of more than 2000 years
, Dedicated to Lord Shiva, this temple is a famous one in this Muziris heritage area, known for its number of representations of Lord Shiva. The Namaskara Mandapam, where devotees prostrate before the God, in front of the sanctum - Srikovil is an attractive one with 16 ornate pillars. The Utsavam (annual festival) is held in the Malayalam month of Kumbham (Feb-Mar), during this period the major festival of Shivratri is celebrated on a  grand scale and is well attended every year in the month of February - March (Malayalam month: Kumbham). Aanayottam (Elephant race), conducted as part of the festival, attracts lots of devotees to the temple. Devotees attend the Palliyara puja  that is held on a regular basis and on  full moon days, before closing the temple. This puja signifies reverentially sending the god and goddess into their bed room (palli Arai) for comfortable rest and sleep. The belief is the devotees, who attend the puja, will be blessed with happy married life and healthy children. 
Muziris Heritage, Kerala, India article.wn.com     
 Ref:
 Introduction". www.keralatourism.org Kerala Touris
 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muziris

The marvelous thousand pillars temple, Hanamkonda, Andhra

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artistically carved images on the pillar, The thousand pillars temple is located at Hanamkonda the photo.webindia123.com

The thousand pillars temple is located at Hanamkonda, Andhra.   historicalplacesofwarangal.blogspot.com
Thee thousand pillars temple at Hanamkonda in Warangal district of A.P was built between 1162 and 1163 A.D. by king Rudra I of the Kakatiya dynasty. The temple deity is Rudreshwara Swamy, a personification of Lord Shiva. The Kakatiya temples are dedicated mostly to Lord Shiva, and they reveal  a blend of the architectural  styles of north and south India which influenced the political life of the Deccan.
The thousand pillars temple, Hanamkonda, Andhra. webindia123.com
The thousand pillars temple is located at Hanamkonda, Andhra. www.outlooktraveller.com
 It is exceptionally a fine  example of  impressive Kakatiya architecture, sculpture and their legacy.  Built on the models of   Chalukyan  temples, this  amazing temple boasts of striking stone images of  Lord Shiva, Surya and Vishnu, besidesinspiring stone  carved pillars of exquisite beauty and skill that bring out the hardship the skilled artisan would have undergone  through to exhibit their imagination and workmanship. No doubt this shrine is quite popular in this region, however, it is sad to note that many intricately carved images are found damaged. This disgusting act of destroying old treasures might have been done by hooligans or anti-socials.
www.transindiatravels.com
The thousand pillars temple is located at Hanamkonda near Warangal city.The height of the temple above the ground is 6 meters and  has a dimension of  31m x 25 m and the superstructure is constructed  on a  one-meter  high plinth. Lime mortar is mainly used for building the temple. Both Granite and  Dolerite ( it is a volcanic rock that cools slower than Basalt; Basalt is a common rock in the Deccan region) rocks are extensively used here for the pillars. The outer structure is built  of granite blocks and slabs are set in lime mortar. The eight monolithic ornate pillars supporting the central hall are made of well polished dolerite with intricate carvings. The Natya Mantapa (dance hall), in the central hall is supported by  four monolithic pillars of 4 meter height and mostly these pillars have alternating square, circular and hexagonal shapes with intricately carved   wall between the alternating pillars. The intermediate wall between the two pillars is intricately carved. The stone beams are  well set on the pillars with a square thick slab atop of each of them. This Mantapa saw considerable restoration work in 2005. 

In the central hall there are three shrines dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu and Surya.  The gates leading to the three shrines are made of dolerite  rock with miniature carved images of dancing girls. 

The government began the restoration work a few years ago, The ASI - The Archaeology department should make wide publicity so that people from other regions anstates will visit this marvelous temple and enjoy the artistic stone works done roughly 850 years ago.
 Ref:
 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thousand_Pillar_Temple

The Marthoma Pontifical shrine, Muziris heritage monument, Kodungallur

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The Marthoma Pontifical shrine. www.alamy.com
 The Marthoma Pontifical shrine is a major pilgrim center that comes under The Muziris Heritage Project undertaken by the Kerala government to preserve the ancient monuments that date back to as far as 1st century. The Marthoma Pontifical shrine, an important  pilgrim center  on the banks of the River Periyar is an integral part of the project and this church is located  about 6 km from  Kodungallur, in the village of Azhikode in Kerala.The fascinating historical fact about this place of worship is, it is believed, that St. Thomas, the apostle (one of the 12 disciples of Jesus Christ),  landed in Kodungallur (then known  as Musiris) on November 21st, 52 A.D and  founded   seven  and half churches in the coastal area of  Kerala;  the first one being in Kodungallur itself.  One of these churches is in the Kanyakumari District of Tamil Nadu.
The Marthoma Pontifical shrine. www.justkerala.in
  The bone of the right arm of St. Thomas was specially brought from Ortona, Italy and enthroned in the present Pontifical shrine on December 6th, 1953. The holy relic of St.Thomas was entrusted by the Holy See - official seat of Vatican to the C.M.I. fathers of  Devmatha Province, Thrissur. The relic is kept  in a  glass case and exhibited  daily from 9 am to 6  pm for veneration of the faithful with befitting briefing.  Special prayer services (Novena) is conduced on request every Sunday. This is the reason why this shrine at Azhikode which  is built on the model of St. Peter's Basilica, Rome has become  a great pilgrimage center  for the Christians as well as people of other faiths.

The 'Marthoma Smruthi Tharangam' (in Sanskrit language  meaning 'the creation of waves of memories regarding St. Thomas' adjacent to the shrine), offers a memorial presentation, lasting 30 minutes of the mission of the Apostle. The major episodes in the life of St. Thomas are presented with audio visual theatrical effects. in a building built in Indo-Persian style.

Ref:
The Marthoma Pontifical shrineen.wikipedia.org

Legendary Goddess Shila Devi, Amer Fort Rajasthan

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Shila Devi,temple, Amer Fort, silver-plated entrance door wirh embossed images of deities.en.wikipedia.org
Idol of Shila Devi, Amer fort, Jaipur.  www.holidayiq.com
Shila Devi temple located within the historical Amer Fort in Jaipur,  Rajasthan is dedicated to goddess Durga  and lots of devotees come here for prayer and blessings.  It is on the right side of the Jaleb Chowk, a part of the massive fort. The popular idol enshrined here, it is believed, was brought by Raja Man Singh I of Amber from Jessore (now in Bangladesh) in 1604 CE. The main deity inside the sanctum is flanked by two lions made of silver. The entrance to the temple is through a silver-plated  double door  embossed with various images of deities.
 Amer palace, Jaipur.Rajasthanwww.indiacatalog.com
The legend has it that Maharajah Man Singh  prayed to Goddess Kali intensely and sought her blessings  for victory in the ensuing battle against the Raja of Jessore in Bengal. The goddess  appeared in his dream and advised him to retrieve her image from the bottom of the sea bed and install it in a temple. Having won the war in 1604, the Raja, followed the instruction given by the deity in the dream and finally had the retrieved idol installed as per Sastras in the temple.  He called it Sila Devi  because  it was carved out of one single stone slab. At the entrance to the temple, there is also a monolithic idol of Lord Ganesha which  is made out of a single piece of coral rock.

There is yet another version  related to the installation of  Sila Devi inside the Amer fort, according to which after victory,  Raja Man Singh  received  a black stone slab as a gift of from the defeated ruler of Jessore. This one  is said to have a link with the  epic story of  Sri Krishna Avatar in which  unjust king Kamsa had killed older siblings born before the birth of  Lord Krishna on this stone. In exchange for this gift, Man Singh generously returned the kingdom he had won to the Raja of Bengal. This stone was then used to carve the image of  Goddess Durga Mahishasura Mardini, who had slain the demon king Mahishasura.  Sila Devi is the incarnation of Kali or Durga. ,Since then the descendants of Rajput rulers of Jaipur have become ardent devotees of Sila Devi though their  family deity is  Jamva Mata of Ramgarh.
Navaratri (nine nights dedicated to nine forms of Goddess) is a major Hindu festival celebrated with devotion in this temple, just like other goddess temples across India. Animal sacrifice (a buffalo and goats) was in practice for a long time. Because of strict government regulations it has been banned since 1975.
 Ref:
  http://www.jaipurthepinkcity.com/hindu_temples/shila_devi/shila_devi.

Our Lady of Snow Church, Pallipuram, part of Muziris monument site, Kerala

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Our Lady of Snow Church,Pallipuram Kerala. en.wikipedia.org
Our Lady of Snow Church  was built 500 years ago at Pallippuram by the Portuguese. Previously it was minor Basillica  and  became a Basillica of Our lady of Snow on 27th August, 2012. First major renovation took place in 1931 and then in 2006. It is part of the Muziris heritage site which dates back to almost first century.
 The  biggest ever flood known in the history of Kerala (in 1341) changed the topography of the area, including the famous harbor Muziris. This harbor and the surrounding area  became submerged in the deluge,  and later a new Island emerged called Vypin, near present day Kochi  in the Vembanad Lake. Soon people began  migrating to the new land. Later during the Portuguese rule, they built a fort in 1503 to secure their trading activities at Pallipuram and it is the the oldest existing European fort in India. With the growth of Portuguese settlement as there was a necessity for Christian services,  they  built a church for the Christian community living nearby and dedicated it to Our Lady.

During the the 18th century, Tipu Sultan of Mysore invaded Kerala, including part of Travancore state and damaged the churches and Hindu temples on his way. He was against the British rulers and the rulers who supported them. To avoid pain and death,  the panicked people took shelter in this Church and prayed for their safety. Responding to their mass prayer  a miracle  had happened and from no where thick fog enveloped over the area, causing  almost invisibility.  Besides, the nearby river was suddenly in spate, threatening flooding.
The  invaders from Mysore, being  unable to see anything farther, stood there dazed. Tipu who camped at Challakkudy left the place with his army.  

It was the unexpected  miracle, a sort of divine dispensation,  that changed the name of Our Lady to Manjumatha (Our Lady of Snow).

Ref:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_of_Our_Lady_of_Snows,_Pallippuram

Elegant Sri Rukmini Devi Temple, Dwaraka,

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Dwarka town, an abode of lord Krishna is on the shores of the Arabian Sea, in the state of Gujarat (Jamnagar district), India.  Dwarka is Considered to be one of the holiest cities in India, it's name is derived from the Sanskrit word 'dvar' meaning door or gate, Ka means gateway. Once  this place was a thriving port, it was the main   gateway to the hinterland. For the Hindus it is also meant a gateway to Moksha  (salvation from  cycles of birth and death).

Sri Rukmini Devi Temple-Dwaraka, Gujarat. epuja.co.in
 Among the temples of  Dwaraka,  Rukmini Devi temple  built in the12th century, is a popular one not only for the consort of Lord Krishna, but also for its architectural excellence frozen in rocks that may make people spell-bound. It is an architectural wonder par excellence. The temple is about 1.5 km north of town and people on pilgrimage to this legendary town will never miss this historical holy place of  great antiquity, beauty and workmanship. 

 Unlike many places of worship where one can see the idols Sri Krishna and Rukmini on the same premises, here the temple dedicated to Rukmini is on the outskirts of the town. There  is a reason for it: Legend has it that one day, Durvasa Muni (Rishi) who is well known for his terrible intemperate nature was invited to dinner by the divine couple. The learned Muni being an honorable  guest,   Sri Krishna and Rukmini wanted to provide him  with sumptuous meal. In the meanwhile,  Rukmini became thirsty and requested Krishna to quench her thirst. With divine power Sri Krishna had the Ganges water gushed from the earth so that she could drink it. This incidence had happened without the knowledge of the sage. In those days tradition had been that the host should not eat or drink until the guest was well taken care of. Particularly in the case of learned sages, it was against norms of Dharma. As ill luck would have it, Durvasa Muni saw Rukmini drink water without his knowledge. Enraged Muni, whose name is synonymous with extreme anger and cursing was upset and cursed that Rukmini would live away from Sri Krishna.  Hence,  Krishna's temple is in the town and hers is located outside the town. 
Sri Rukmini Devi Temple-Dwaraka, Gujarat. commons.wikimedia.org
 The temple is a hunting ground for Architects and interior decorators. It is a fine example of simple, but elegant architectural design and style prevalent in the northern part of India.. The outer walls, including the tower are  artistically  carved with beautiful images of various Demi gods, etc. Interior parts of the temple are decorated with paintings, depicting Rukmini's  happy times with Sri Krishna.  The beautiful carvings, particularly on the pillars of the 'Sabha Mandapa' are quite inspiring. The Garbhagriha (inner sanctum) has a recessed seat on which the present image of Rukmini in enshrined.
Ref: http://dwarkadishtemple.co.in/article/id/285/-rukmini-devi-temple

Interesting Nageshvara Jyotirlinga Shrine , Dwaraka

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Among the temples of Dwaraka, Gujarat, Nageswara temple is a significant one because it is one of the 12 Jyotirlinga shrines mentioned in the Shiva Purana and  it is believed to be the first such shrine.
Nageshvara_Jyotirlinga temple, Dwaraka, Gujarat.thinkingparticle.com
Twelve Jyotirlinga are considered to be auspicious and holy. Each of the twelve Jyotirlinga shrines is named after the  presiding deity and each is a manifestation of  Lord Shiva in the form of Linga, suggesting his infinite nature. Some of his  main manifestations represent  five essential elements of nature. No Aathi and no Anatham, meaning no beginning and no end.  The twelve jyothirlinga are  Nageshvara Jyotirlinga, Rameshwar at Rameswaram in Tamil Nadu and  Grishneshwar  at Aurangabad in Maharashtra,  Somnath in Gujarat, Mallikarjuna at Srisailam in Andhra Pradesh, Mahakaleswar at Ujjain in Madhya Pradesh, Omkareshwar in Madhya Pradesh, Kedarnath in the  Himalayas, Bhimashankar in Maharashtra, Viswanath at Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh, Triambakeshwar in Maharashtra and Vaidyanath  at Deoghar in Jharkhand.
Nageshvara Jyotirlinga, Dwaraka, en.wikipedia.com

There is a legend regarding hoe Lord Shiva assumed the form of Jyothi - a huge column of fire with immeasurable  crown and base.  Once Lord Vishu and Lord Brahma  had a dispute over their superiority and finally approached  Lord Shiva to solve it. Shiva took the form of a huge column of fire and told them whoever informed him that he had seen the crown or base first would be the winner. Vishnu took the from of  'Khurma' went down the Earth. Having found that it was a futile bid, he gave it up and told Shiva that he could not see the base of fire. On the other hand, Brahma took the form of a bird and flew upward to find the crown. Upon
Thazampoo (screw pine in English) hinduhints.blogspot.com
meeting Thazampoo, (Ketaki flower or Screw Pine Flower), a kind of sweet smelling flower on the way, he inquired about Shiva's crown. He told Brahma that he had been floating down wards for centuries. Knowing the impossibility of seeing Shiva's crown, using Tazhampoo as a false witness, Brahma lied to Shiva the he had seen the crown of the column of fire. Enraged Shiva cursed Brahma that there won't be a any temple dedicated to him, and as for Thazampoo, it was unfit for worship at Shiva temples.

  According to the Shiva Purana,  Nageshvara Jyotirlinga is in 'the Darukavana, an ancient name of a forest in India. 'Darukavana' finds quoted in Indian epics, such as Kamyakavana, Dvaitavana, Dandakavana. Legend has it there was a demon named Daaruka, who  gave lots of troubles to the Shiva devotees, including one Supriya in his town of Darukavana, built under the sea and  inhabited by sea snakes and demons. The devotees and Supriya prayed to lord Shiva to save them from the demon and his unbearable atrocities let lose on them. They chanted the  holy mantra of Shiva and immediately thereafter the Lord Shiva emerged and  and killed the demon.  Daruki, wife of the demon, got special boons from Parvati, Shiva's consort and became a dominant figure in the forest Darukavana. Drunk with lots of magical power and arrogance, she moved the forest into the ocean and began treating the Shiva devotees and  the hermits shabbily, kidnapping them and jailing them, etc. Shiva's devotees were again subject to all kinds of mental pain and torture. Supriya, an ardent devotee made a lingam and asked the other  prisoners to pray to Lord Shiva. At last Shiva appeared in the form of Jyotirlinga and blessed Supriya with a weapon with which he called Daarukiki and other demons. Here the Shiva Lingam  reverentially prepared by Supriya is known as Nageswar and  goddess Paarvati is called Nageswari.

There are no Archaeological evidences suggesting the presence of Darakavana forest in ancient times; hence the location is a controversial one and  because of its  questionable location,  'Jageswara' temple in Almora, Uttarakhand is commonly identified as Nageshvara Jyotirlinga. This place - Darakavana has innumerable Deodar trees, perhaps, it is believed, the name  may be derived from it. The temple, built in North Indian temple architecture style, is visited by devotees from all over Gujarat and other places.
Nageshvara_Jyotirlinga temple, Dwaraka, Gujarat.thinkingparticle.com

Ref:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nageshvara_Jyotirlinga
 

Inspiring Sree Chakkulathukavu Devi Temple, Neerattupuram, Kerala

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Chakkulathukavu Devi temple.kerala-tourmet.com
Sree Chakkulathukavu Devi Temple,www.keralatourism.org
 Among the Hindu temples of Kerala, ones devoted to Goddesses are quite interesting, for they are being visited by lots of women folks, seeking peace, prosperity and welfare for their families. Such temples observe a myriad of festivals and puja rituals, catering to people from all walks of life. Kerala women  actively participate in all important temple festivals with true devotion and dedication. Thru Karkthikai, Onam and Deepavali festivals are joyfully celebrated joyfully and on such auspicious days, the temples are well lit with oil lamps and well decorated. Among the temples of goddesses,
Sree Chakkulathukavu Devi Temple is an interesting one.

Sree Chakkulathukavu Devi Temple, dating back to about 3000 years, is  located  at 'Neerattupuram' on the border of Patthanamthitta  and Alappuzha Districts of Kerala.It is about 95 km from the  capital  city  of Thiruvananthapuram. The presiding deity here is Goddess Durga Devi (Goddess Kali) and the temple stands in a serene place with rivers Pampa and Mala flowing on either sides. The devotees will not only be benefited by the bliss of Goddess Durga but also by the  peace and tranquility the surrounding areas offer in plenty. It was in 1981 the temple was renovated. 

In the last few decades, this temple has become quite well-known and is being visited by lots of people. Here the Devi - goddess is in swayambhu - self- manifested in the shape of Lingam. The 'Pongala Festival' of Chakkulathukavu Temple  is as popular  as that of  'Attukal Pongala' of Attukal temple in Thiruvanathapuram with which it has similarities. Since the goddess is considered the mother of the universe, she is reverentially called 'Chakkulathamma'. Large number of devotees bring their children to this temple for her blessings so that they will prosper in their lives as they grow older. The belief has been that the goddess is fond of children  and she blesses them  for their prosperity in all realms.

The other deities  at  Chakkulathukavu Bhagavathi Temple  are  Lord Shiva, Lord Vishnu, Lord Vinayaka,  Sastha, Murukan (Subramanyar), Serpent Gods, Navagrahas etc.
 

At this temple all Hindu festivals are celebrated with devotion and religious fervor.The annual festival of this temple falls in the Malayalam month 'Dhanu' (December).  As in many temples, the first Fridays of every Malayalam month is very auspicious  and special ceremonies are performed on that day. An interesting feature at this temple is the Goddess has a sword and drug and liquor addicts can kick off their bad habits by way of making a solemn oath before the deity while touching the divine sword. It is said many addicts have got rid of the life threatening habit after their visit to the temple. 

'Thrikkarthika Festival' (the birthday of the goddess) in the Malayalam month of 'Vrichikam' is well celebrated on a grand scale in this temple. It is a 'Festival of Lights' celebrated by the Hindus by decorating their houses and premises with small oil lamps. On this important day, the major attractions are 'Laksha Deepam' ( 100,000 oil lamps are light on the temple premises) and 'Karthika Pillar. The former is symbolic of spread of wisdom, prosperity and goodwill and  the latter refers to an event in which  Aricanut tree, decorated with plantain, straw, dry leaves, etc., is set on fire, symbolizing eradication of evil thoughts, negative elements from our mind 
Pongala Festival' at Chakkulathukavu Devi templekerala-delightfulartsandculture.blogspot.com
On Thrikkarthika Day the 'Pongala Festival'  here is performed by lots of women devotees who light up oil lamps at the temple and in their houses. Women folks prepare Pongala (in Tamil Pongal) by cooking rice with Jaggery (Naattu sakkarai or Vellam) and grated coconut in earthen pots set in the open places near the temple and offer it to the goddess. The make-shift hearth is made of bricks and one can see lines of Pongala pots on the paths leading to the temple. The other food offering is Therali.'
Karthigai Theepam, Chakkulathukavu Devi temple.keralawww.youtube.com
Kathikai pillar or sthambam, Chakkulathukavu Devi temple, kerala,
www.youtube.com
Puspanjali, Navagraha Pooja, Kumkuma Pooja, Chowa Pooja, Muzhukkappu, Kadum Payasam, Kalabha Abhishekam and  Karthika Pooja are some of the rituals observed at this temple.

This temple can be reached from Thiruvalla and Chengannur, nearby major Railway Stations. Frequent bus services  are available from Chengannur and Thiruvalla to Neerattupuram and Chakkulathukavu. 
Ref: 
 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chakkulathukavu_Temple

Graceful Malayalapuzha Bhagavathy temple, Kerala

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Malayalapuzha Bhagavathy  temple, www.keralatourism.org
Malayalapuzha Bhagavathy  temple, Kerala.www.keralatourism.org
The Malayalapuzha temple  located 6 km east of Pathanamthitta town, the capital town of Pathanamthitta District is  a popular one and lots of devotees make a beeline to this place to get relieved from various problems we commonly face in this fast world,  mainly  black magic. It is about 106 km from the state capital Thiruvanthapuram and is believed to be 1000 years old. The presiding deity -  Bhadra Kali Devi in her ferocious  posture (after killing the demon Dharika)  is called  'Malayalapuzha Amma' (Malayalapuzha Mother). The goddess is ferocious in apperance towards wicked and  evil-minded people but is always graceful to the people who come her for her blessings and protection. There are two idols - one for abhisheka - anointing of the idol and the other for Sree Bali  a daily ritual. The Devi Temple, built amidst five hills called Uppidampara mala, Pulipara mala, Cherukunnathu mala,Oottupara mala, and Achakanna mala, used to follow the 'Kaula' Tantric way of worshiping  and animal sacrifices were done in olden days to propitiate the goddess, but later they were banned by the government. This temple is known to help those affected by spells or black magic (Soonyam in Tamil) used by foul-minded persons to take revenge, etc. The Tantrics conduct a ritual called Chavirakku' to remove the black magic from the victims  by using flying fowl birds. It is believed that the spirits of the dead are driven away for good, and after this ritual the victims are taken to the deity for prayer and her blessings. This temple is also noted for helping unmarried girls to get married soon, besides blessing the devotees with overall prosperity.
 

The devotees on the temple premises and inside the sanctum get emotional upon seeing the goddess, who is  graceful and pour our their pent-up feelings and frustration experienced by them in this trouble - ridden world. They do it in the strong belief that their personal problems will be taken care of by the deity and get back home with free mind, leaving their problems with the goddess. In the western word people seek the help of Shrinks!!
Malayalapuzha Bhagavathy  temple, Kerala. www.flickriver.com
Unlike many temples where the deities are made of  alloyed metal or stone, ,the idol 5 1/2 feet tall, is made of what is called 'Kadu Sarkara Yogam, consisting of various ingredients such as Turmeric, Sandalwood Camphor,Gold, Silver,Sand, various herbs, wood pieces, jaggery, turmeric, camphor, etc well pasted together with natural glue. At the time of consecration, the Tantric chant mantras and energize the idol that will benefit the visiting devotees. Here the Vedic methods are not used, only Tantric methods are used to deal with black magic, etc.Tantric methods are explained in Atharvana Veda. This kind of worship in many parts of Kerala. Such worships are rarely followed in other states.

There are deities  such as Shiva Linga (Syambhu -self manifested),  Baby Ganapathy,Murukan, and Sastha.  As mentioned, special puja called Raktha Pushpanjali' is performed to find relief for problems related to spells, black magic cast by the enemies. The sweetened rice known as 'Chathussatham' is offered  by the devotees for leading a prosperous and peaceful life. To lead a healthy life devotees bring flying fouls and set them free on the temple premises.these rituals are popular here. Among the offerings, 'Thoniyari Payasam (Sweet rice,etc), Ney Vilakku (Lighting ghee lamp), Nirapara (Offering of giving rice, Paddy, sugar, etc in a measuring vessel known as 'para' in full measures), etc are well-known.
 

The annual temple festival begins  on Thiruvathira star day in the Malayalam Month of Kumbham and Aarattu  (the Eleventh day). Other Hindu festivals that are held here are Vinayaka Chathurthi, Navarathri, Sivarathri Vinayaka Chathurthi,.Tuesdays and Fridays are considered most auspicious days.
are more important than other days and there will be heavy rush on those Ref:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malayalappuzha_Devi_Temple


Peralassery Subramania temple, Kerala - dedicated to serpents

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Peralassery Subramania temple, Kerala, temples-in-north-kerala-thekkillam.blogspot.com
Stepped tank, Peralassery Subramania temple, Kerala,www.justkerala.in
In Kerala, there are many Hindu temples dedicated to lord Subramania, son of lord Shiva and the one at 
Mundallur  - Peralassery Subramanyaswamy Temple, 15 km from Kannur on Kannur-Koothuparaba Road is an ancient place of veneration, believed to have been worshiped by Lord Sri Rama and Hanuman. The temple has some connection with the great epic the Ramayana. Lots  of devotees visit Peralassery temple to get rid of 'Sarpa Dosham ('Sarpa Kopam'), the ill  effects of Serpent curses, also called Naga Dosham based on their individual horoscopes. Here the presiding deity is Lord Subramanya in serpent form, hence the main offerings here are eggs, quite unusual in the Hindu temples.

The legend has it that once upon a time lord Subramaniya had imprisoned Lord Brahma  for his inability to  tell him the correct meaning  of " OM" Pranava Mantram.  When Lord Shiva came to know about it, he released Brahma from the prison, reprimanded  his son for his misconduct and told him, in unequivocal terms, that he  had committed sin and to make amends for having  ill treated lord Brahma, Subramanya had to take the form of a serpent and live in isolation in a well. So, Lord Subramanya took the form of a snake and the other snakes protected him from rain and sunshine because of his  as he divinity. 

Peralassery  is the place where this incident was supposedly taken place. When Parvathy, Shiva's consort, wanted to see Subramanya in natural form,  she was advised by Shiva to follow Shasti Vratham. After several such Vrathams (fastings) Subramanya appeared before her in the Serpent form. The moment Parvathy touched the serpent, Subramanya got back his natural form.
 

During the period of Ramayana - Thretha Yuga', while in search of Sita, Sri Rama  recognized the presence of Subramanya in a temple  called Ayyappan Kavu' in a remote place in the present day Kerala. Here  the  presiding deity was Lord Ayyappa, however, Sri Rama a wanted to have an idol of Subramanya installed there and asked Hanuman to bring it  from the Himalayas before the end  the auspicious time. As Hanuman did not come on time, Sri Rama consecrated his bangle in the place of an idol. The bangle is referred to  as 'Vala' in  the Malayalam language  and  the bangle of the prince(here it refers to Sri Rama) was called  'Peruvala'. Later, the name changed to Peralassery'. The idol brought by Hanuman was also consecrated here by Hanuman himself.  the place where Hanuman consecrated the idol, came to be known as 'Markadakassery' and later became 'Makreri'.
Stepped tank or Kulam.  Peralassery Subramania temple, Kerala,www.youtube.com
One peculiarity about this Subramanya temple is  the main  divine offering to the deity - hen's egg  that  are available at the temple itself. There are numerous images of serpents in brass and copper in the shrine. The tradition has been that here Lord Subramanys is in the form of a serpent. The offering of  'Sarpa Bali' is popular here. The main  days are 'Ayilyam, shashti, Sankramam' in this temple. The yearly festival is conducted for 8 days in the 
month of 'Dhanu' (Dec-Jan). Yet another religious activity is Thidambu Nritham'. The primary performer is the temple  priest. As common in many Kerala temples,  Chakyarkoothu, Ottanthullal,  Parayanthullal, etc will be held  during the festival time and the week long Kodiyettam festival is well attended by a large number of  people.  

The Stepped Tank (“Chira”) of  the Peralassery Subramania temple is a major attraction here. Such stepped tanks are rare in this part of India  that receives plenty of rain during the Monsoon. Ornamented and  highly sculptured  step wells are quite common in the arid areas of Rajasthan and Gujarat.
 Ref:
 http://discoverkannur.blogspot.in/2014/04/peralassery.html





Havelock memorial Chapel, first Baptist chapel of Agra, India

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Havelock memorial Chapel, Agra, UP. www.colonialwalkagra.com


The Havelock Memorial Chapel, Agra. Illustration for The Illustrated London News, 14 August 1875.www.lookandlearn.com/
Agra city near Delhi is home to the world famous  beautiful marble structure the Taj Mahal. It is a mausoleum built centuries ago by the Mogul ruler Shah Jahan in memory of his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal. Not many people are aware that there are many colonial British buildings built by the British when this area was under their control and they speak volumes of their legacy in this part of the subcontinent. It was in 1829 Agra  became a British possession. Havelock Memorial Church, built in honor of one of the British generals of the Indian Mutiny of 1857, is located in the army cantonment area at Agra, Uttar Pradesh.  The other British buildings of interest are Queen Mary’s Library, Central Post Office and Circuit House.

The Havelock Chapel is an old and historical building that was built in classical  style through public subscription. Fittingly it was named after Sir Henry Havelock, who  took the initiative and built the first ever  Baptist chapel in Agra in  1832. In 1873 an extension to the chapel was  added  by the  Baptist  missionary the Rev. Gelson Gregson. Considered as one of the most complete Chapel, a sum of  Rs.12,000.00 was spent on the building and the furniture. The purpose of this Chapel was to serve the English soldiers and others who needed the church services. That is the reason why this  Chapel has a large reading room  and library for the use of soldiers from the nearby garrison. The major employer was the British East India company. The  huge building measures 105 feet  by 500 feet. The Chapel catered to  people of various ranks. The 13th Regiment contributed liberally for the construction of the first Chapel and the 65th  Regiment later made liberal donation for the construction of the extension building.Besides, many British higher-ups made monetary contribution for the successful completion of this chapel.

One will be surprised to know that the founder of  the well-known travel company (Thomas Cook and Co) Mr. Thomas Cook,  contributed more than one thousand books  to the library called the Havelock Library. There is a  portrait of him kept in the library. 

It is an impressive building  built in Gothic style with  gentle Gothic arches  and corrugated iron roof and it has large enclosed verandahs paved with red and white sandstones. They are used as aisles and the library hall is easily accessible from sides.
  
Sir Henry Havelock, is  still remembered for his valuable contribution for his services to the British society in and around Agra and this Chapel is his prized work undertaken with hard work and perseverance. The Havelock Memorial Chapel will take us right back to the colonial days that saw so many ups and downs, change of so many high officials and military regiments who played a greater role in the establishment of the British Empire across the globe, using India as a spring board.
Ref:
http://wiki.fibis.org/index.php/Havelock_Memorial_Chapel





Forgotten European souls !! - Agra's earliest Catholic cemetery, India

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Fairytale like  earliest European graves built in Mogul style, Agra returnoftheprodigal.wordpress.com

The mogul style tomb of Walter Reinhardt, also known as Sombre or Samru, a European Mercenary of dubious nationality. 
photo credit: evenfewergoats.blogspot.com
India has innumerable historical monuments, spanning several centuries  and connecting us with its past history,  and  its gradual development of  various cultures from other nations that were heterogeneous in nature. Though Christianity came to  India  in 52 AD with the arrival of the Apostle St. Thomas who was instrumental in establishing seven and half churches on the coastal Malabar in South India, in the northern  states, it took roots  pretty late. The city of Agra has several historical Muslim monuments which are often being visited by the tourists. None is aware of the Christian monuments such as British buildings, churches, etc. Among them, the  Roman catholic cemetery is an important and interesting historical site, for  here we find one of the earliest Christian  Cemetery, dating back to 1550. Unfortunately, it is the most overlooked historical site because of poor publicity by the tourist department.  Further, the Roman catholic grave is not visible, as it is hidden behind a stone wall in a secluded area. The  tourists in a hurry will certainly miss them unless they have keen eyes. Even the local taxi and auto rickshaw drivers are not aware of this site.
The Marty's chapel.- the oldest building in the cemetery, dating from Akbar's time. built around 1611 to honor the memory of an Armenian merchant by the name of Khoja Mortenepus.photo credit: evenfewergoats.blogspot.com
The oldest grave site  with  epithets is an interesting one for the History  freaks. You come across a myriad of  centuries old Christian graves of mostly Europeans  who were once mercenaries, traders, monks, soldiers, etc., hailing  from different nations  and they  long lived  and perished here far away from their mother land. Perhaps they came here,  seeking adventure, fame and fortune, but finally ended up  being a lump of  clay and dust in their graves, leaving behind  only the inscription of their names intact on the grave stone. 
The mogul style of tomb of William Hessing, one of the earliest Roman Catholic Cemetery,  note the  chatris on the corners, Agra. thatandthisinmumbai.wordpress.com

begum Samru's tomb along with unidentified European grave. photo credit: evenfewergoats.blogspot.com
If you are curious and drawn by the attractive red sand stone building with a beautiful red dome that looks like mini Taj, often referred to as Red Taj,  you will realize that you have stepped on the oldest Christian grave built in this part. This 460 year old structure built in Mogul style is the most prominent Christian mausoleum in India. There were many early European travelers, traders and others who used to visit India and many of them lived here and  after their death, they were buried here. John William Hessing’s Tomb was built by his wife  Anne in  memory of her beloved husband.  William Hessing was a soldier from Holland and  he once served the Dutch East India company and fought against 
The interior of  John Hessing's tomb, with the graves arranged in a typical Mughal Tomb. photo credit:evenfewergoats.blogspot.com
the British. Later he worked for the Indian rulers, including the Marathas.  He got a name when he defended the Agra fort as a commandant in 1799. He died on July 21 July, 1803 during the reign of Maharajah Daulat Rao Scindia who then  ruled Agra.The cemetery is a protected site now. 

The amazing thing about these oldest graves is the inscription, epithets are clear, readable and kept clean and tidy. For some reason, in the 17th and 18th centuries, Christians, after their death,   were brought to Agra from various places exclusively for burial and perhaps, the church authorities might have found Agra was a blessed place for the departed souls. There are more than 80 Armenian graves  well modeled and designed. It is apparent that there was a large Armenian community here during the period. Many of them were either  traders or  missionaries. The Mogul ruler Akbar  allowed them to preach Christianity and also  religious conversion.Though they could not succeed in their attempt to covert the native Indians to Christianity in the northern states, they continued to live here till their death.  One may be surprised to come across the  graves of  Jerome Veronio, and  Hortenzio Bronzoni; both were Italian jewelers during the Mogul period. There are many Italian graves  here, each with distinctive inscriptions displayed both in eastern and western style. It is worth mentioning here that there is a grave for one Walter Reinhardt who worked for a local ruler and had his own army. He married an Indian woman Begum Samru, a Muslim woman, who became a Catholic later. She happened to be the only catholic ruler in India. There are graves of Jesuit monks of various nationality who died in Agra in 1600s. 

The impressive  tomb dated January 14, 1868 of Francis Ellis, an Englishman  draws our attention. The architecture of this tomb is unique. It is an eight-sided structure made of sand stones with beautiful carvings and pointed arches. Around this tomb. one will find the graves of the Ellis family members who lived here and  died on the soils of  India. 

After a visit to this earliest  historical European  cemetery in the city of Agra, the lines from  Thomas Gray's poem of 1751 "Elegy Written in a Country Churchyard" will linger in your heart:

"The boast of heraldry, the pomp of pow'r,
And all that beauty, all that wealth e'er gave,
Awaits alike inevitable hour.
The paths of glory lead but to the grave. The paths of glory lead but to the grave". 


The Indian Tourism department should make wider publicity about this historical site and takes steps to preserve it for our future generation. The heroes of by-gone years whose mortal remains lie buried in the graves, are now forgotten poor souls and their places of eternal sleep -  tombs  need to be preserved and taken care of.  
Ref:
https://returnoftheprodigal.wordpress.com/2014/09/28/agra-catholic-cemetery/

A church carrying Mogul 's name !! Akbar's church, Agra

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Akbar’s Church” from 1772 with additions in 1835.Archbishop’s house, within the complex has the Cathedral of Immaculate Conception (1848) and Akbar’s Church; a large colonial mansion. sarsonkekhet.in
Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception (1848).sarsonkekhet.in
The famous city of Agra near Delhi in the state of Utter Pradesh is not all  about the Taj Mahal and equally well-known  Mogul  monuments built centuries ago. It is needless to say, it has more to offer  to the travel hungry people, considering its proximity with Delhi, once the capital of the moguls and later the British. The city is  replete with  structures blended with mogul as well as other architectural styles. It is a confluence of Hindu, Muslim and Christian cultures that survived through centuries despite several upheavals, battles and treaties. There is an English Church called Akbar's  Church built during the mogul period, The name of the church may sound odd, a Christian prayer house bearing the  enigmatic name of a great Mogul ruler!! Positively it will kindle our curiosity to know  about this monument built during the Muslim rule.

Among the Mogul rulers, Akbar was not only a dynamic and sagacious  leader, but also a secular administrator.  Built in the late 16th century, it was pulled down in the middle of  17th century and at last rebuilt in 1772. Fittingly it is named after Akbar, considering his secular credentials and his liberal attitude toward people, following other faiths.

The early church was built by the missionaries during the reign of Akbar who allowed them to preach the Gospel of Christ and convert the natives to Christianity. The  subsequent demolition of the church points out the fact that the later mogul rulers like Shah Jahan and Aurangazeb were not tolerant towards other faiths. Aurangazeb, in particular, was tyrannical that caused his down fall. The present church, as it stands now,  was rebuilt only after the British gained supremacy in this part in the later years of 1761 with the fall of mogul and other Indian rulers.




Standing close to Akbar's church, a new church was built in 1848   to manage the growing congregation  during  church services. The space was not adequate enough to handle a huge gathering.  Further, the christian community also had begun to grow slowly. The large new church complex with imposing building to meet the additional crowds  is called the Cathedral of Immaculate Conception. It is very much similar to Akbar's church except the altar. The new church has baroque exterior in the front that makes it look majestic. In Wazirpura, the Roman Catholic Complex is a huge colonial site with   imposing baroque Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception,

St Patrick’s School built earlier in 1843 is in the same complex. Also included in this complex is St. peter's college which is housed in an impressive building that has been around since 1840s. This particular colonial building is characteristic of big ornate porch and arcades.

The Akbar's church is a legacy of Mogul as well as British era and their roller coaster rule over the Indian subcontinent.
Ref: 
http://epaper.timesofindia.com/Default/Layout/Includes/ETNEW/ArtWin.asp?From=Archive&Source=Page&Skin=ETNEW&BaseHref=ETM%2F2010%2F02%2F23&GZ=T&ViewMode=HTML





Old British building that housed Dalhousie Institute, Kolkata

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Kolkata, now the capital of West Bengal state, was once the capital  under the East India company rule, and later under the British Raj  till 1911. The capital was shifted to Delhi during the period of Lord Curzon  (1859 – 1925; as Viceroy of India, he earned the ire of Bengalies  for the creation of Eastern Bengal and Assam) for the main reason that there was growing disenchantment among the natives in Bengal about the British  Government and their oppressive rule, and  the other hitch was, geographically, Calcutta was no longer at an advantageous position. So, the choice fell on Delhi. The only disadvantage  Delhi had was  being in the center of the main land and  there was no harbor. Nor was there any navigable river near by. Calcutta had a Riverine port and still it has. Under the English company and late under the Raj Calcutta developed rapidly and numerous buildings, churches, educational institutions, etc  came up. At many pats of this city one can the beautiful buildings built by the British during their heydays. They are the frozen records of  the British presence in India. Among the British monuments in Kolkata, the one on the Hare Street, where Dalhousie institute functioned, is one of the earliest buildings built soon after the power transferred to the British Crown from the East India company. Until independence, Kolkata remained a major center of freedom movements and many stalwarts scarified their lives for getting the Indian subcontinent off the British yoke.

Dalhousie institute, Calcutta (kolkata)puronokolkata.com
The Dalhousie Institute, located  on the south side of Dalhousie Square, Kolkata was built during the rule by the East  India company at the cost of Rs. 25,000.00. Designed by Mr. C.Q. Wray, architect, the foundation stone of the institute was laid on March 4, 1865 by the then Lieutenant Governor of Bengal, Cecil Beadon. Originally  planned to be built adjacent to the government house, part of the cost of construction was met by public subscription and part from funds allocated to honor the heroes of 1857 Sepoy mutiny. The building was proposed to use it as a Hall of monuments, displaying the statues and busts of men of repute associated with British India History and to conduct social meetings for people of all walks of life. The social gathering would promote social integration, friendship and understanding among the people, an opportunity to keep abreast of various activities of the ruling government. It was not a social club in its early formative ere the years and no drinks were served. Nor were the ladies admitted as members till 1887. Such social gathering was also an opportunity  for the English company to get to know the people's grievances, so that they could be rectified.

The building was named  after Lord Dalhousie who was appointed Governor-General in 1847.  Dalhousie square was the main administrative area of Calcutta. The famous Writer’s Building functioned as the   headquarters of the East India Company. The building, built as Corinthian pro - style temple, Octastylos,  has lecture rooms, large library and a huge hall  which could accommodate 1000 people, meant for concert and public meeting. The large hall has vaulted ceiling and  single Corinthian columns.
Dalhousie institute, Calcutta (kolkata), another view (1870s picture). photographer believed to be Samuel Bourne.  .puronokolkata.com
When World War II was on,  the US government needed the building to station its troops in 1948, soon after India's independence.  The institute was shifted from Dalhousie Square to its present location  on  Jhowtalla Street.  So was the  original marble plaque, commemorating the event and one will find it in the entrance hall of the new building that was  designed by Walter Granville. 
Ref:
https://puronokolkata.com/2015/03/08/dalhousie-institute-hare-street-calcutta-1865

Oldest snake boat race, Aranmula, Kerala

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The Aranmula Boat Race, Kerala. en.wikipedia.org
Kerala state often referred to as 'God's country' is Nature's paradise and the interior places are replete with greenery and groves all along the water ways, One will get lost and be free  from the mundane existence and madding urban confusions. Kerala has the largest long water ways in India cir-crossing across the state. Snake boat races are part of Kerala's culture and are held during the Hindu festival times. The Aranmula Snake Boat race is an interesting one, as it is closed connected with the Hindu temple on the banks of Pamapa.
The Aranmula Boat Race, Kerala, Sri krishna temple in the back drop of the river Pampa. alchetron.com 
  The Aranmula Boat Race, the oldest one  in Kerala, S. India is a spectacular one held during the Onam festival (August–September) - on the fifth of 'Thiruvonam Day' which is known as 'Uthrittathi star day' ('Uthrittathi' is the 26 th Star day). The venue is  Aranmula,  Pathanamthitta District, near a Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Krishna and Arjuna. The snake boats here are considered sacred, as they are  closely associated with the  Vishnu temple on the bank of river Pampa. The legend has it the idol of 'Parthasarathy Temple' (Sri Krishna as charioteer to Arjuna in the Kurushetra war) at Aranmula was consecrated by Pandava Prince Arjuna on 'Uthrittathi star Day' and this race boat, as part of the  festival, is held to commemorate that event. It is believed that the idol of Sri Krishna  was brought to Aranmula on a canoe  accompanied by a procession of several canoes and Snake boats. The water festival held every year here used to be known as  Aranmula Jalolsavam'
  
The decorated boat with a flag, ornamental umbrella and a golden lace at the head of the boat move in pairs to the rhythmic full-throated songs sung by selected singers. The boat songs are written by Ramapurathu Warrier in his poem known as 'Kuchela Vritham Vanchipattu'. It was in 1972  snake boat races were introduced as part of the temple festival.  Thousands of people gather on the banks of the river Pampa to watch the snake boats, zipping past one another and participate in the temple festival.  Presently 48 snake boats called  Palliodams'take part in the race. Snake boats are called Chundan Vallams in Malayalam and snake boat racing is part of Kerala culture well associated with Hindu temple festivals. In 2009 only 41 boats took part in the race.  The oarsmen sing traditional boat songs and it is mandatory to wear Mundu and turban (in Tamil Thalappa Kattu). Incidentally, Uthrittathi day is also believed to be the birthday of Pandava Prince Arjuna. 

Snake boats  normally are wooden boats made of typical, sturdy   wood  known as 'Aanjili' which withstands long exposure to the water. Boats are narrow and tapper towards the ends  for easy mobility, and their length varies from 120 to 140 feet. The race boats can carry 100 to 120 oarsmen, including  singers and are   controlled by 4 helmsmen and the oarsman at the tip of the boat.
 

 On Ashtami Rohini  day, the birthday of Sreekrishna is celebrated with devotion and boat races are conducted here.  On these days all the rowers will be served free food  from Aranmula Temple which is known as 'Valla Sadya'. It is believed that by  feeding the rowers of boat we pay our obeisance to God Sri Krishna for his blessings and benedictions. It is  a way of propitiating the deity here. There are numerous devotees to sponsor such Anna Dhanam (free food) -  Valla Sadya'  programs, providing free food  to the rowers of Snake boats. The rowers and singers are the  people belonging to the same 'Kara' who are the owners of the boats. The Onam festival is celebrated on a grand scale here.
Ref:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aranmula_Boat_Race



1000 year old historical Chandragiri fort, Andhra

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Chandragiri fort, Andhra. www.goroadtrip.com
 Raja Mahal, Chandragiri. en.wikipedia.org
  It is a historical fact that the subcontinent of India was ruled by several rulers across the land. Several dynasties like the Cholas of Southern India ruled the land more than 1000 years ago and their primary defense against the invading army of the enemies was fortification around their place. As time went by, they had introduced innovative methods to build strong and impenetrable forts to  beef-up their defense against sudden  unprovoked attacks from their neighboring rulers. In India there is no dearth of  such forts older than one thousand years. The historical Chandragiri fort, which is  now not it was in the by-gone years, is a case in point. Though the structure is not in good shape, none can deny that once it was a major center of imperial power.  

The historical Chandagiri fort, built on the 183 meter high hill, is one of the  rare oldest forts in India. Chandragiri is a village in Chittoor district of the Indian state of  Andhra Pradesh. This 1000 year old fort was under the control Yadvarayas for three centuries and they built the place as barricades and ramparts to safeguard them against raids from other rulers.  The fort was seized by the rulers of Vijayanagara in 1367 as it became a powerful kingdom in that region. Vijanagara rulers were great builders and  obviously they built impressive buildings and temples, Consequently the area of the fort  was also expanded. The Vijayanagara Dynasty made valuable contribution in literature and art and they encouraged scholars, poets and artists.Their kingdom saw expansion all around, particularly as far south  as Thanjavuur and Madurai in Tamil Nadu where their resident representatives were Naiyaks.   Vijayanagara  gained popularity  during the reign of  Saluva Narasimha  Rayalu. Chandragiri was the 4th capital of Vijayanagar Empire. Because of frequents threats from the Golconda Sultan,  Rayas shifted their capital from Penukonda to this place here.

Chandragiri  fort witnessed  several  seesaw  battles among the local rulers to control over the area. In 1646, it became part of the Golconda territory under the Sultan. Later the ruler of Mysore took control till 1792. After that the fort was never occupied and there is a big hiatus. Nothing is left of this once famous fort where, it is believed, the most popular ruler  Sri Krishnadeva Raya grew up.

The fort  has several parts, besides ruined Vishnu and Hindu temples. The building here is made  of stones and bricks and lime mortar. Amazingly no timber is used . The two Mahals in the fort are in the lower and upper levels. There are separate quarters for the king and the queen. The king's palace is called Raj Mahal which is a three-storied structure  built in Indo - Saracenic style during the Vijanagara period. The crowning towers, typical of Hindu architecture, are made of bricks instead of stones to avoid additional over load. The queen's palace Rani Mahal is a big hall with flat roof. It has well designed private quarters.
Ref:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chandragiri
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